the one seal was stuck inside the other, I got now, still not clear on where the smaller ones without the metal retainer go though.
Brake caliper rebuild
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: PA
Brake caliper rebuild
anyone have a pic or diagram of the caliper seals, of course I took the things apart last summer and well, you know the story, I'm looking at 8 seals for the one side, where do the smaller ones go? also do you put some kind of adheasive on the seals before you tap them in??
thanks
thanks
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Try corvettefaq.com
There are a number of pics there. No adhesive required for the dust seals. A little tricky to tap them in without crushing the metal edge. i use a 3/4 drive socket, per Lars paper. Works very well but you still have to be careful.
There are a number of pics there. No adhesive required for the dust seals. A little tricky to tap them in without crushing the metal edge. i use a 3/4 drive socket, per Lars paper. Works very well but you still have to be careful.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 499
Likes: 1
From: Winnipeg Manitoba
Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
Try corvettefaq.com
There are a number of pics there. No adhesive required for the dust seals. A little tricky to tap them in without crushing the metal edge. i use a 3/4 drive socket, per Lars paper. Works very well but you still have to be careful.
There are a number of pics there. No adhesive required for the dust seals. A little tricky to tap them in without crushing the metal edge. i use a 3/4 drive socket, per Lars paper. Works very well but you still have to be careful.
Should you use adhesive (silicon?) between the piston and the lip seal?
My bore was smooth after honing, but the piston surface was rough.
After putting it all together, it occured to me that the leaking could be between the piston and the seal.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: PA
my problem is: I have 4 seals that have the metal ring around them, one of those is different, also there are 3 seals with no ring, this was the kit for one side, what the H#$@ am I looking at and why 7 instead of eight?? what are the 3 without the metal ring for and why is 1 out of the four with the metal ring different??
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: NorCal 71 Lt-1
this is a picture of front caliper lip seals. rear seals are simular but are smaller in diameter
- (4) on the left are the dust seals which have to be tapped on
- (4) on the right are the piston seals
- (2) small seals on top are installed between the caliper halves
*the small seals go here (red circle)
*this is a rear piston with the piston lip seal installed
Last edited by wnjlt1; Apr 9, 2006 at 03:41 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Please note that standard lip seals MUST be installed in the proper direction.
The sharp edge of the seal must point in toward the fluid ... as shown in the picture directly above.
Oring seals do not matter.
The sharp edge of the seal must point in toward the fluid ... as shown in the picture directly above.
Oring seals do not matter.
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 223
Likes: 1
From: Kennesaw GA
Hey guys, I'm catching this thread a bit late, but I'm working on the rears for my '69 and for the life of me I can't seem to get the pistons to come all the way out. For the tapped in external seals, are you just supposed to pry those out with a fine bladed screwdriver or is there a more elaborate trick to it? Is there another 'trick' other than using air pressure to blow the pistons out of their bores?
I've done this job before with other cars, but wasn't sure if it was the same.
Thanks
I've done this job before with other cars, but wasn't sure if it was the same.
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: NorCal 71 Lt-1
Originally Posted by GruntyPants
Hey guys, I'm catching this thread a bit late, but I'm working on the rears for my '69 and for the life of me I can't seem to get the pistons to come all the way out. For the tapped in external seals, are you just supposed to pry those out with a fine bladed screwdriver or is there a more elaborate trick to it? Is there another 'trick' other than using air pressure to blow the pistons out of their bores?
I've done this job before with other cars, but wasn't sure if it was the same.
Thanks
I've done this job before with other cars, but wasn't sure if it was the same.
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
I figured I'd share a tip for installing the piston lip seals as I had trouble trying to get them to go in mine. The seals tend to somewhat point out when you try to stick the piston down in the bore so I used a small flathead screwdriver and carefully tucked in the lip all the way around the bore while applying pressure on the top of the piston next to where I was tucking. I talked to the company that sent me the seals and they said they never had a problem putting them in, "they just go in" but apparently not the case for me. Anyways, I'm sure there's other ways to getting them in but if I knew then what I know now I would have saved a few bucks on lip seals. 
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
From: Cumming GA
Yea....... Even a nice flat/blunt screwdriver carefully inserted will "pop" out the dust seals. And as was mentioned earlier in those great pics, make sure the piston seals have the "open side" facing into the piston bore.
I set each piston seal ring in some brake fluid first, also use a q-tip to lightly coat the bore........ put on a seal, then spring and place in bore. (You may want to have a very small flat screwdriver to shoe-horn in the seal because it will not just seat into the bore without some form of compression. Just be carefull not to tear it. Just slowly go around the perimiter of the bore and "tuck" in the seal on the way-around).
BTW........ the reason the open side faces inwards is so that when you apply hydraulic pressure inside the bore (when braking is applied) it fills that open area and actually forces a better seal to take place. Forces the seal against the piston bore walls.
I set each piston seal ring in some brake fluid first, also use a q-tip to lightly coat the bore........ put on a seal, then spring and place in bore. (You may want to have a very small flat screwdriver to shoe-horn in the seal because it will not just seat into the bore without some form of compression. Just be carefull not to tear it. Just slowly go around the perimiter of the bore and "tuck" in the seal on the way-around).
BTW........ the reason the open side faces inwards is so that when you apply hydraulic pressure inside the bore (when braking is applied) it fills that open area and actually forces a better seal to take place. Forces the seal against the piston bore walls.
