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differential check

Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:56 PM
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Can anyone tell me a good way to verify that my differential is "OK" and not in need of a rebuild? I can't put it in the car to test it since it's got a ways to go before it's driveable.

I made a video of the play I've noticed in the side outputs. There is a little when I turn them, then a noticable amount when I pull them in and out. Is this normal?

differential-check
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by rick1500
Can anyone tell me a good way to verify that my differential is "OK" and not in need of a rebuild?.....
Free ride to the top. I would also like to see some feedback on this. BTW, excellent video and deserves responses.

I would also suggest a differential rebuild search over the last 2-3 weeks that should get you some members you might contact directly to share the vid.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 12:29 AM
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Do a search on differential.... lots of info out there.
The yokes should have less then .030" of endplay (in-out). Looks like you have more than that, but hard to tell from the video. Looks like a new paint job, so you probably can't tell if it leaks from the pinion or yoke seals?
Gary will probably chime-in, he's written a differential rebuild paper. Also, check this out: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1236684
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 12:53 AM
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PM grt1999

he's the master of rear's

no pun intended.....
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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Judging by what my rebuilt differential looks like, I'd say yours looks pretty normal. Gary will have the final word though.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 12:25 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but it looks like it might be on the border. Gary PM'd me and said that more than .035 and I should replace the yokes, more that .06 and I should do a rebuild. I think I have a good 1/16" of play (.0625), but I'm going to double check when I get home...it might be less.

Any recommendations on gears if I need to do a full rebuild? It's originally 3:36. What's a good compromise for acceleration and occasional highway cruising? I'm thinking stick to 3:36? Hopefully I won't have to worry about that...
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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Rick, the dimensions I gave you are from my experience only, I don't know of any Gm spec on the endplay. When I tune the posi and rebuild a diff I set the endplay to under .005" in most cases. The last one I did was right at .002" per side. When you go over .035" the chances are likely the case hardening is gone and they will rapidly wear when driving. Of course you can continue to drive the car as I've driven many with over .100 endplay in them. You'll feel in while driving at speed on the highway,the rear kind of slips out from you.
What Tranny do you have? a M-20 or auto work great with 336's.

I PM'd you my number call me and I'll go over things with you.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:56 AM
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Hi Rick,

I'm sorry to say, but the way I see it, you have to change your yokes.
This is what they'll look like.
Left the worn yoke, right the new yoke.

Left the worn yoke, right the new yoke.

Inside the diff without yokes.

Inside the diff with new yokes


After putting in some new yokes, no more play at all!

Again sorry, but you have to get the diff. of and put in some new ones.
Dont forget to change the yoke seals!

Bye,

Rene
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rick1500
Can anyone tell me a good way to verify that my differential is "OK" and not in need of a rebuild? I can't put it in the car to test it since it's got a ways to go before it's driveable.

I made a video of the play I've noticed in the side outputs. There is a little when I turn them, then a noticable amount when I pull them in and out. Is this normal?

differential-check
Just dropping in to compliment you on the great post. The video really makes it easy to see what you are talking about. I also have "about" that much play (~.030), as best I can tell. I have a chunk, chunk, chunking at all speeds that sounds like a ujoint, and I suspect it is the diff. I wish I knew if that play would cause that type of noise. New ujoints and wheel bearings, so not those.

I made a 48" channel iron beam that runs from shock mount to shock mount. With a scissors jack sitting in my jack tray on my lift, I can raise the tires off the ground and keep the car on it's suspension and maintain it's ride height. When it's up, I do the 12-6 oclock thing on the tires and that same, small movement at the yokes results in quite a movement at the wheel. I don't have a clue what is acceptable. Wish I knew.
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