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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Alternator Upgrade
Last summer I upgraded my alternator to a higher output. I want to be able to take full advantage of the alternator upgrade so I am going to add a heavier wire. Here is where my question comes in, and I haven't looked at a wiring diagram yet. I need to run the heavier wire from the alternator to the terminal on the starter or does it need to go to the battery?
Eddie,
Have you considered running all your electrics thru relays to keep the load from being concentrated at your key switch? There was a post about that with a company Call Madd or something like that.
Bernie
take full advantage of the alternator upgrade so I am going to add a heavier wire
There is no need to add any heavier wires unless you are adding something that will draw more current. The electronics that you had with the old alternator are going to draw the same amount of current with the new alternator. The advantage is that you know they will get sufficient current. The new alternator will also enable you to add electronic components such as fans and high powered stereos.
ed is correct, if you have not added in any power hngry devices like fans or big sound system there is no real need to run a bigger wire since the current demand has not increased. Here is a link to MADs site there is some great info there if your not already schooled on auto electrical systems. http://www.madelectrical.com/
Some good recommended upgrades are Relays for the Headlights and anything else that uses a lot of juice. The advantage is eliminating the rather large voltage drop thru the cars stock electrical harness for everything on the car.
Good Luck
There is no need to add any heavier wires unless you are adding something that will draw more current. The electronics that you had with the old alternator are going to draw the same amount of current with the new alternator. The advantage is that you know they will get sufficient current. The new alternator will also enable you to add electronic components such as fans and high powered stereos.
I did that upgrade awhile back also....bought the alternator kit to make it 100amps on Ebay....
To answer your question, you should upgrade the wire from the alternator to the starter. Thw wire going from the starter to the battery is already 2 AWG which should be just fine.
Just a little sidenote. When I upped the alternator to 102A, it fried the ammeter in the car. First time I fired it up it pegged the ammeter and now it is stuck high. And I did not upgrade the wire to the alternator.
I am following the MAD wiring layout since I added the dual spals and have upgraded to the Powermaster 140 amp alternator. Although I am making one revision, the Mad layout states to run an 8 gauge from alternator to electrical junction distribution block and then 10 gauge from there to starter, I am uping this to 8 gauge just to be safe in case the alternator fails and switches the load over to the starter/battery side.
Just a little sidenote. When I upped the alternator to 102A, it fried the ammeter in the car. First time I fired it up it pegged the ammeter and now it is stuck high. And I did not upgrade the wire to the alternator.
Does anyone know a way to avoid this? I'm planning to upgrade my alternator and I'd like to keep the ammeter working.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by 70 LS1
To answer your question, you should upgrade the wire from the alternator to the starter. Thw wire going from the starter to the battery is already 2 AWG which should be just fine.
Just a little sidenote. When I upped the alternator to 102A, it fried the ammeter in the car. First time I fired it up it pegged the ammeter and now it is stuck high. And I did not upgrade the wire to the alternator.
Thanks for the help. I already have a piece of 6 gauge that I was going to use. Should be able to handle the load.
I was looking at the MAD website and have always liked the idea of adding the headlight relays. Very good idea. My car had previously had problems in this area when I got it. The drivers side dashpad was smoked pretty good and covered in fire extinguisher residue.
the only reason for the ammeter to fry is to much current going thru it. The meter is typically connected across a known resistance wire, look it up on your schematic, it will look like the amp meter is paralell to a wire. If that wire (which is supposed to carry all the load) opens, then the load would all run thru the guage. If your wiring is intact there should be no problem. All the larger ammeter does is give you a bigget bucket of amps to source from.
yea, but there is a problem to start with, fix that.
Anlther idea is just to upgrade to a voltmeter, that will give you more usefull info for the average guy anyway.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by shafrs3
You need to upgrade the fuseable link from the junction box to the starter also.
Okay, I added the new wiring this evening. You say I need to upgrade the fusible link also. The wire I added has a provision for putting a fuse in it. Right now it has a 30 amp fuse in it. I am thinking this is probably too big. Any thoughts on this?
Okay, I added the new wiring this evening. You say I need to upgrade the fusible link also. The wire I added has a provision for putting a fuse in it. Right now it has a 30 amp fuse in it. I am thinking this is probably too big. Any thoughts on this?
Fuse it with enough amperage to cover anything that will be running without the alternator. For instance, my fan controller has a built in 30 second delay that allows the fans to run briefly after the ignition is shutoff, the fans draws 25 amps. I had a 30 amp fuse that eventually blew. I replaced it with a 30 amp slow blow and seems to be holding.
Although you may not NEED to run larger wires the ONLY downside of having larger wires is the cost, time to install and chance of making an error. The benefits are, to put it simpy, overkill good *grunt*.