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Im about to replace my PS control valve and am looking for some tips. Once the ball stud is separated, does the center link drop down enough to unscrew the valve? Has anyone done the rebuild of the valve? I went through the rebuild procedure but wanted to ask if this is easily done or is it best just to buy a rebuilt valve.
Yes, once it is separated it will drop down enough to unscrew. I have done it a couple of times. Make sure you take the clamp bolt all the way out.
I did not even try to rebuild it because most places offer lifetime warranty against leaking. I bought my last one about 5 years ago from Autozone and it hasn't started leaking yet, knock on wood.
you can rebuild for about $25 as long as the thing is not pitted or scored. Not hard to do, yes it drops down with the ball seperation like Red says, nothing to it. Be carefull when you reinstall, it is touchy on the adjustment, mine knocked the hellout of me first time out.
I bought a rebuilt one from CC and it went on great. Just make sure the threads are as clean as possible to make reassembly easier. Took me a while to figure that out.
Thanks for the replies. It's good to hear that autozone has this part, most other local stores did not. That should make for less down-time. A rebuilt valve should already be balanced...right? It appears that the leak is coming from the ball stud side of the body. Have you guys seen a similar failure mode? From looking at my drawings, it appears that the steering fluid should be completely sealed from the ball stud side of the body and the ball stud seal is to seal ball stud grease only. Is this correct?
Check to see the gap at the end of the valve before removing the valve. Look in the AIM it shows the dimension in it. The goof who assembled my 75 back in 75 screwed the valve all the way on and rolled the threads. It was a bear to remove~ 5' pipe on the valve!
Buying vette parts from a chain store is like play Russion Roulette with an Colt 45 automatic, good luck.