Adjusting Front Door Seams
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,364
Likes: 303
From: Lansdale 19446 PA
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
Adjusting Front Door Seams
The front upper seam gap on my 78 is double the width of the bottom. Back of the doors are perfect.
My guess is the nose needs to be adjusted/shimmed UP. Where would you make the adjustment?
Thanks!
My guess is the nose needs to be adjusted/shimmed UP. Where would you make the adjustment?
Thanks!
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 50
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From: dawg county utah
Well it's been so long sinse I've seen my rad support in place that i dont remember wether it is in the way or not but there is a front mount at the tip of the nose,just today with my body sitting on a stand I gave the nose a pull up and down ''cautiously'' and the only piont that it seemed to move or flex at is at the wheel wells so i would say unless you break your front end free and re glue to adjust your gap I'd live with it and if you do decide to open it up it's a whole nother can of worms and probably years before it's on the road again and endless amount's of $$$ I've questioned the idea my self being a perfectionist and decided to live with it that is unless you own a drop top 
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,364
Likes: 303
From: Lansdale 19446 PA
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
Originally Posted by comp
both doors that way ???
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 876
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From: Same as our leaders Out of my mind
My 79 is the same way. I read somewhere that the factory would literally grind the door seams down to make them fit as part of the production process. It sounds pretty crude, but was probably more cost effective than remanufacturing the parts to closer tolerances.
The bottom front door seam gaps on my 79 are almost non-existent, while I have about a 3/8" gap at the top of the doors. The back seams look fine.
The bottom front door seam gaps on my 79 are almost non-existent, while I have about a 3/8" gap at the top of the doors. The back seams look fine.
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Pro
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St. Jude Donor '09, '24
Originally Posted by vetteman1978
The front upper seam gap on my 78 is double the width of the bottom. Back of the doors are perfect.
My guess is the nose needs to be adjusted/shimmed UP. Where would you make the adjustment?
Thanks!
My guess is the nose needs to be adjusted/shimmed UP. Where would you make the adjustment?
Thanks!
You will need to put a new door skin to fix the problem. The factory didn't have time to make sure the door seams were uniform. Get some body work books on the vette(glas-ra.com) and that should give you all the information you will need to correct the problem, houstonvett
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
There is a good chance you can correct the gap. The body work from the doors foward is supported by the radiator support. This in turn is supported by the front frame extensions. This can sag down over the years. You must be careful in the next step! Using a floor jack under the radiator support (using a block of wood for protection), set up a little upwards support. Loosen any frame extension bolts. Some year 'Vettes require removal of the front bumper braces, and additional jack support on the front impact bar. Please crawl under the Vette and see how everything is tied togeather. By slowly raising the jack, the front end should begin to go back to where it once was. Don't rush it. Keep checking as you go. The bottom door gap should open up as the upper gap closes. Tighten up the frame extension bolts when the gap is acceptable. Disclaimer: Use your judgement on doing this. Don't attempt it if you are not sure. No adult beverages consumed during this operation...(only allowed upon successful completion)
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 439
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From: Mukilteo Washington
I have this on my 77, I posted on this when I was replaceing my body mounts, I was told I could adjust this gap by useing different thickness shims by jacking the rear up to close this gap, I tried this by putting 4 shims at the #4 mount, 3 shims at the #3 mount, 2 shims at #1 and no shim at #2 (right above the seam), it fixed the drivers side and made the passenger side better, my passenger door skin is disbonding from the door frame so it's going to be replaced and relocated this winter when I do the body and paint.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,674
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From: Loveland, CO
If you are going to do body and paint work, rather than a new door skin, you can build up the front clip with fiberglass to close the gap. I think the Eckler's book has a section on how to do this. It's just an option if everything else fails.
Ralph.
Ralph.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,107
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From: Lancaster PA
Originally Posted by rponfick
If you are going to do body and paint work, rather than a new door skin, you can build up the front clip with fiberglass to close the gap. I think the Eckler's book has a section on how to do this. It's just an option if everything else fails.
Ralph.
Ralph.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 439
Likes: 0
From: Mukilteo Washington
Originally Posted by rponfick
If you are going to do body and paint work, rather than a new door skin, you can build up the front clip with fiberglass to close the gap. I think the Eckler's book has a section on how to do this. It's just an option if everything else fails.
Ralph.
Ralph.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,364
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From: Lansdale 19446 PA
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
Thanks for all the input!
Now I have several options. Most of the paint has been stripped off - just the passenger side left to do. Never thought of approaching the problem from the #4 body mounts. I'll check for play in the front first.
Thanks again!
Now I have several options. Most of the paint has been stripped off - just the passenger side left to do. Never thought of approaching the problem from the #4 body mounts. I'll check for play in the front first.
Thanks again!
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,682
Likes: 829
From: WI
I actually spent a couple hours yesterday adjusting my 81's doors to get them right before I put on the new fender. You can reduce the upper gap where the top of the fender arches back if you raise your door a little. It doesn't take much. If the hinge section on your door doesn't have enough adjustment, you might have to elongate the holes with a die grinder. Or, loosen up the hinges themselves, but you practically need the dash removed for that.
I'm getting my doors lined up as best I can before I enter the body work stage. I may have to build up some edges to get the gap right. The edges on my car were not very uniform, in fact they fit like crap.
I understand they were making cars at peak rates in St Louis and quality was less important than quantity, then. When they moved production to KY they had more assembly room/tooling to do a better job. Consequently quality was much improved.
Mark G
Mark G
I'm getting my doors lined up as best I can before I enter the body work stage. I may have to build up some edges to get the gap right. The edges on my car were not very uniform, in fact they fit like crap.
I understand they were making cars at peak rates in St Louis and quality was less important than quantity, then. When they moved production to KY they had more assembly room/tooling to do a better job. Consequently quality was much improved.
Mark G
Mark G
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Brandon FL
Try removing or adding door hinge shims. Sounds a little strange I know but I fixed the door/fender gaps on my 80 by removing the hinge shims on the lower hinges. This moved the doors in line with the fenders for a perfect match.
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