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I've been trying to align the front wheels on my '72 and have not been able to get positive castor on the passenger side. The lower control arm puts the wheel too far rearward and I am not able to adjust the upper arm that far to make positive castor. After inspecting things under the car I found the bracket welded to the front crossmember is bent (see pic below) and the weld on the part of the bracket that welds to the back/top of the crossmember is partially broke (its a little hard to see in the picture but its there).
So.... I have a new bracket on order and I am in the process of removing the old bracket by grinding off the welds. If anyone has any words of wisdom for me, I'd like to hear
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
This is a common problem with these cars. Are you going to make the repair with the motor in the car? It will be very tight in there trying to weld the bracket on the back side of the cross member. There have been a few threads on this subject recently. If possible you can add gussets in this area to help stiffen the cross shaft mounts. Look at my gallery ("MY corvette photos" under my name), I have some pics of my repairs and additions to the frame in this area.
Thanks. I have read a few threads on this and saw your pictures. They have been very helpful. I am trying to do this without pulling the motor. I have the fan & fan shroud off and I have removed the lower radiator hose. I have enough room to grind off the welds so I'm thinking I'll be able to get the welder in there (although it'll be tight, as you said). I am debating taking off the fuel pump to get more room but I'm not sure if that'll really help. Actually, pulling the radiator and removing the hood might be more helpful.
I think I've got one more weld to get through and the old one should be off. Now, I'm just hoping Mr. Brown shows up today with the new one....
Where did you order a new bracket from. I am having the same problem and mine broke on the driver side. When you said bracket you ment the part that welds on correct.
Last edited by Silver00V6Camaro; Apr 15, 2006 at 01:28 PM.
It is the welded on Bracket I am talking about. I ordered a new one from Corvette Central (P/N 182045). It may actually be from Paragon so you might get a better price going through them. For the driver's side, if you have power steering, the pump will probably have to come off so you can get to the upper part of the bracket.
I've got the old one out. Still waiting for Brown. The crossmember (and bracket for that matter) are very solid -- only surface rust. I wonder how this got bent so bad. There are no other signs of damage to the front of the car that I can see but it has been repainted.
Thanks. Thats not as bad as mine my power steering control valve blew out and made my tires do a hard right and bent the tire rod sleve and broke that braket when the car went over a curve because of it. i could not turn the car left. here is a pic of mine on the car of what happend.
It looks like 1/2 your job is done -- you don't have many welds left to grind off.
I separated the tie rod end from the steering knuckle arm, disconnected the sway bar from the a-arm, removed the shock and unbolted the a-arm (the 3 bolts you see in the very first picture I posted). When I unbolted the a-arm, I had a floor jack holding it up. Once the bolts were out, I slowly let the jack down. If you don't do that, you will be fighting the spring. Also, I think the bolts holding the a-arm in typically have loc-tite red applied to them so they are a bit tough to break loose. That is all I disconnected to get to the bracket.
They aren't 1/4" -- probably closer to 1/8". You might want to measure yours. Maybe chevymans77 could tell you what he built his gussets out of if that is what you are thinking about.
I have the same problem with mine, the passenger side has totally torn itself off the frame. I bought the replacement bracket from Zip for $85.00 which includes both pieces. The only thing is that the holes on both pieces do not come pre-drilled so you basically have to line up the old bracket with new one, mark the holes and drill them. This goes for the top piece also that welds onto the upper portion of the cross member.
I lucked out because I caught it early. During my engine swap I noticed a crack at one of the welds. I was able to clean it up and re-weld it. I was able to get the alignment perfect. Good luck, looks like you made good progress.
I haven't had much time to work on this lately but at least I was able to drill the 3 holes today in the lower bracket. I used one of those cone shaped drill bits for it. It worked very well.
Just an update. Had to do some landscaping for the wife last weekend so didn't get to work on the vette. This weekend I got the bracket welded in. I'm a bit rusty at welding and the welds show it so I didn't take any pictures of them.
I think I am well on my way to proving you can do this with the engine in the car but it sure would be a lot easier with it out. I was not able to get my face in close enough on the top brackets to really see what I was doing since the engine was in the way. Anyway, its in there. Its in there at least as good as it came from the factory and I fitted the suspension together without the spring to get an idea how the alignment is going to be and everything looks good. Next step is to clean it up and throw a little paint on it. After that I'll be able to put the suspension back on, do the alignment, and then take it for a drive