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This morning I drove my car to work since i is supposed to be 75 and sunny in NoVA. Car sounded a little different so when I got to work I opened the hood and took a listen. Heard a (best I can describe as) a tapping noise from the drivers side of the engine.
The engine is a almost brand new Jasper 383 (less than 500 miles) and I just recently put 93 octane in it instead of the 91 I have been going with and I am wondering if that could have something to do with it?
A little bit more information....
Here is the link to the spec sheet for the engine. I had them also include intake and car as listed ont he bottom right.
93 octane should not have any negative effect (other than on your wallet). If it runs fine on 91 that's what I'd buy.
The noise:
Hopefully it's only a loose rocker arm. What type of lifters do you have ? hydr./solid flat tappet or roller ??
Rocker arm nuts can come loose, did you use 'stock' or 'locking' nuts ?
I'd take the valve cover off and have a look ...
G/L
Not sure on the lifters or nuts. I will check the detailed build sheet when I get home. As for the nuts, not sure on that either.
Will a loose rocker arm be pretty obvious by manually handling each one in succession? Do you know the torque settings by chance if that were to come loose?
Not sure on the lifters or nuts. I will check the detailed build sheet when I get home. As for the nuts, not sure on that either.
Will a loose rocker arm be pretty obvious by manually handling each one in succession? Do you know the torque settings by chance if that were to come loose?
The rocker arm nut is what you use to set valve to rocker arm clearance. Normally nylon lock nuts are used, these can come loose if they were used more than once or twice (the nylon or plastic ring wears out and doesn't lock anymore). If this nut is loose you have increased valve clearance which then can sound like a ticking or tapping noise. If there is enough thread left above the rocker arm nut you can use a second nut to lock the first one down, this is easy and cheap but works.
If you have hydraulic lifters it's possible that a lifter collapsed or simply failed.
These are the inexpensive options... I hope it's not a wiped camshaft lope
Would there be other symptoms for a wiped lobe? What would cause this? The engine was properly broken before they shipped it (part of their turn-key package) and they said theonly thing I should do is an oil change after the first 500 miles and then on a regular schedule after that.
To see a wiped lope you have to pull the lifters, this is possible without taking the intake off. You have to use a lifter puller (or a "magnet on a stick") thru the pushrod opening in the heads. Pull one lifter, look at the cam lobe and the bottom of the lifter, re-install or tear down the engine depending on findings....
What causes it ? There are many discussions going on on this forum, many members reported wiped lobes. Some say it's the low zinc content in modern oils, some say it's the agressive cam profile on modern cams... the manufacturers (of course) mostly say it's "improper break in procedure'...
Take the valve covers off, inspect and see what you find... it's hopefully only a loose rocker nut.
BTW, a header leak can sound like a ticking noise. Make sure you don't have a leaking header gasket.
Actually, yes. Your comment about the potential header gasket leak led me to a slap to my own forehead for forgetting an obvious one. On the way home I picked up a mechanics stethoscope (during which time I joked with the guy at the parts store that my wife is truly going to think this is by far the WEIRDEST car tool I have ever bought) and went around the header gasket area of the passenger side (side with no noise...consistent sounds all around) and then around the drivers side where the noise is and when I got to the top/center of the header gasket it got really loud all of a sudden so it looks like there is where my leak is.
Actually, yes. Your comment about the potential header gasket leak led me to a slap to my own forehead for forgetting an obvious one. On the way home I picked up a mechanics stethoscope (during which time I joked with the guy at the parts store that my wife is truly going to think this is by far the WEIRDEST car tool I have ever bought) and went around the header gasket area of the passenger side (side with no noise...consistent sounds all around) and then around the drivers side where the noise is and when I got to the top/center of the header gasket it got really loud all of a sudden so it looks like there is where my leak is.
Thanks again for the input and reminder!!
Isn't it great when it's something simple ??
When the engine/header is cold spray some foam (shaving foam works great) in that area, then start the engine and turn it off again... you'll see where the leak is
I had header leaks before and got Breslin locking bolts (Summit or Jegs). these are expensive but worth the money