When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stick with a decent set of stock mildly worked over iron heads, they last longer and perform just as well in reality for a street machine....
I don't think my aluminum heads were worth the money, and surely not for the reliability costs....
I'm using aluminum Trick Flows. I haven't used them long enough to make any comments about reliability. I sure hope that I will be able to defend them in the future when asked this question. :rolleyes:
I purchased them from Summit Racing Equipment for $850. I believe that the price has gone up to $900 now. From what I have read, the Trick Flow heads had some reliability issues during the early stages of production due to valve guide location / geometry but that has supposedly been corrected.
What type of driving is your car used for? For example, mine is ~70% cruising and ~30% "drive it like I stole it" :yesnod:
Miker,
I have 8000 miles on my Edlebrock rpm heads and have not had a problem. They produce good power and are much lighter than the cast iron heads.
I would purchace them again.
Ed
Get the aluminum oval port heads - I have EDL's and they flow tremendously more . Plus aluminum is alot lighter and will conduct the heat better than iron . I wish i had done it much sooner than when i did - the performance improvement is alot. The EDL are very high quality and CNC.
I think the link posted by "yellow 72" makes for some interesting reading. I have to conclude that in my case the following points don't make sense for the extra expense of purchasing heads.
1. Cracked heads - aluminum can be repaired. I have never cracked a head in 40+ years of engine modifying. Warped - maybe once, because of blockage to a head water passage. But cracked no. If you port way-to-much, or enlarge valves oversize, maybe. But for the everyday guy, not likely.
2. Weight reduction of 50lbs. Well, maybe if he is trying to squeeze that last 0.1 sec time down. Otherwise he'd never notice the difference.
3. Running a point or two higher CR. Again, unless you are building for the strip, 11:1 is not going to "feel" any better than 10:1 on the street.
IMHO it's all mostly market hype, and for the average hot-dog street car, it will never make a BIG difference one way or the other.
I went over to the Chevelle site just to see what they had to say. Years ago iron equivolent heads were more thermally efficient. My heads have been thermally coated to a certian extent. If I had it to do over again I would have had them totally coated. Thermal coatings in the ports, chambers, and valves and the oil repelant coating on everthing under the valve covers.
I will also build all my future street motors in the 11+ C/R range because they run fine on 92-93 octane gas.
I'm using L-98's and there fine. They bump up the compression(58cc) and shave alittle weight. Becareful if you add alum. heads and manifold be prepared to replace your springs.
I have the Trick Flow 23 degree aluminum heads. I have had no problems, they perform well and IMHO are a great head for the money.
My decision to go with aftermarket heads in the first place was that it was going to cost me almost as much to rebuild and modify the stock iron 186s to compete on a performance and feature perspective with the Trick Flows. They would have required pocket porting, installation of hardened valve seats, new bronze guides, screw-in studs, guide plates, valve springs, etc. etc.
I went with the TFS' and did a basic rebuild on the 186s and put them in storage.
Running aluminum AFR heads and would not go back to iron. By the time you modify the iron heads you are close to the aluminum cost. You can run more compression with aluminum.
I just read that whole thread on the Chevelle forum and it is pretty good. I didn't buy my Trick Flows because they were aluminum or for the weight savings. The price vs. the potential performance advantage is what sold me. Aluminum vs. cast iron expansion rates causing head gasket failure is a concern that I have. Also, I do worry about cross threading or siezed bolts and spark plugs. I don't regret purchasing the Trick Flow heads, I gott'em and I'm going to run the HeII out of 'em till something gives up. Plus, to the semi-knowledgable enthusiast that takes a peek under my hood, there is the WOW! factor associated with an "aluminum head hot rod motor";)
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: Anyone using aluminum heads? (mrvette)
I don't think my aluminum heads were worth the money, and surely not for the reliability costs....
About 90% of cars built today use aluminum heads. Ford and GM started using them in production in the early 80's. Motorcycles have been using them for a really long time.
I wouldn't think that reliablilty would be an issue if all the leading car manufactures have switched to aluminum heads and still offer warrenties up to 10 years.
I just bolted up a set of Dart Pro 1's to my new motor.
The weight savings are: Alum heads: 56 pounds
Intake: 18 lbs. Water pump 5 lbs, Alum Dist & shielding removal : 2lbs
Mini starter 7 lbs, Air cleaner: 1 lb, lighter fan 1 lb
Est weight reduction 90 lbs.
I let you know when I get it running :yesnod:
I'm in my second season with a set of Edelbrock RPM heads and I've had no problems so far. I tend to push this motor to 6000+ rpm and so far so good. The extra point on CR makes a bit more power on pump gas.
The real trick though is to create a package where all the parts compliment each other. Otherwise just bolting a set of aluminum heads to your block will not do much of anything for you.