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Water pump flow numbers

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Old 05-04-2006, 10:39 PM
  #61  
pef427
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Originally Posted by 76 sting
Paul thanks so much for your assistance you have me

I agree with not worring about parts going bad as I usually never buy anything from a parts store. If it goes bad I will buy another one.

If it goes bad in the remotes of TX, see the above post about the creek and the paddle! With that said, I'm already regretting not having went with the CSR or Meziere. Maybe once the bugs are worked out I will take care of my oversight. This has been a good read.
Thanks,
Patrick
Old 05-04-2006, 11:11 PM
  #62  
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Interesting thread...

I chose a bit differnt route...

Low tension Radius tooth belt drive is fairly efficient as the tooth rolls in the pulley. I worked with the engineers at JRP to get drive ratios in line with my usage... I have street gearing for my accessories and race gearing. I also opted for an overdriven water pump and alternator on the street. I have no issues with lights, ECM, Electric Fuel pump, Main SPAL Fan and Aux Fan for the oil cooler with Denso Race Shop 86A alternator. Idling at 800 RPM. The beauty of the alternator is that it is internaly balanced and blueprinted and dyno tested to hold together at continious High RPM's. I lunched two Delco over the counter remans with 5800 Engine RPM bursts.





Old 05-05-2006, 12:07 AM
  #63  
76 sting
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Originally Posted by pef427
If it goes bad in the remotes of TX, see the above post about the creek and the paddle! With that said, I'm already regretting not having went with the CSR or Meziere. Maybe once the bugs are worked out I will take care of my oversight. This has been a good read.
Thanks,
Patrick
Thanks for your support, as this is what the forum is all about

Hey, maybe we will see each other on the road someday...and not on the side of the road because of an elec water pump

I am 1/2 hr north of dallas if your close let me know.

Old 05-05-2006, 01:31 AM
  #64  
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Forget about an electric water pump. go with a team G or
edelbrock.
Old 05-05-2006, 06:36 AM
  #65  
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Years ago, cars used low pressure radiator caps with upright-style radiators. At high RPM, the water pump pressure would overcome the radiator cap's rating and force coolant out, resulting in an overheated engine. Many enthusiasts mistakenly believed that these situations were caused because the coolant was flowing through the radiator so quickly, that it did not have time to cool. Using restrictors or slowing water pump speed prevented the coolant from being forced out, and allowed the engine to run cooler. However, cars built in the past thirty years have used cross flow radiators that position the radiator cap on the low pressure (suction) side of the system. This type of system does not subject the radiator cap to pressure from the water pump, so it benefits from maximizing coolant flow, not restricting it.
This is something I found on the howard stewart water pump website
Old 05-05-2006, 09:40 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 76 sting
Have you see this type of set up??...to me it looks 10 times better. An elec pump itself is much easier on the eyes, no pully, no fan, and no ugly huge fan shroud to be bother with.

Yes, I have. I think the electric motor looks stupid. Just my opinion. I have a factory pump, no fan, and no shroud. Looks pretty clean to me.


Originally Posted by 62C1
What I mean by cleaning up the engine compartment is that with the dual Spal fans you can remove the stock shroud. This opens up the front a lot. Also removing the fan assembly frees up a bunch of space. Yes you still have to run belts for the alternator and PS pump but those never took up much front space anyway. It makes the whole front look much cleaner.
Agreed.

Originally Posted by 62C1
I also run a camber brace which was a bear to deal with having the shroud on.
I've got a brace, too.

Originally Posted by 62C1
As for the hoses, the inlet/outlet are stock. But it's a whole lot easier getting to the bottom radiator hose than before.
And how often is that necessary?

Originally Posted by 62C1
Another side benefit of the electric pump is you can use the pump to do a complegte radiator/block flush when it comes time to change the coolant.
I can, too. With a hose. Several flush/fill kits out there to do this...

Originally Posted by 62C1
Running an electric on my C4 pretty well convinced me that this was the way to go. The types of events I normally run call for intense periods of sustained high RPM driving followed by immediate parking with no significant cool down period. The ability to circulate the coolant while running the fans with the engine off is one of the unique benefits of an electric. You can't do that with a mechanical.
True, but why not let the engine idle for a few minutes? With my setup, I've never seen the engine break 200 degrees, and that's running normal a 50/50 mix.

Old 05-05-2006, 09:44 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
Forget about an electric water pump. go with a team G or
edelbrock.

There must be some secrete NASDAQ stock out there for mech water pumps since most folks are telling me to buy them.

Old 05-05-2006, 09:49 AM
  #68  
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[QUOTE=CGGorman]Yes, I have. I think the electric motor looks stupid. Just my opinion. I have a factory pump, no fan, and no shroud. Looks pretty clean to me.
QUOTE]

I guess some folks will never see eye to eye and that's OK..it's what makes the word go round and round. Imagaine where we would be if everything and everyone was the same.


By the way nice set up.

Old 06-10-2006, 01:15 AM
  #69  
80TexasC3
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Darin... Welcome to TX...and the temp has definitely increased since we did the AER show a month ago!

What was your final decision (electric water pump or mechanical)???

I'm also about to go with an electric fuel pump and would appreciate your insight on this decision / design.

Thanks... Ed
Old 06-10-2006, 02:33 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 80TexasC3
Darin... Welcome to TX...and the temp has definitely increased since we did the AER show a month ago!

What was your final decision (electric water pump or mechanical)???

I'm also about to go with an electric fuel pump and would appreciate your insight on this decision / design.

Thanks... Ed
Hey Ed!! WOW it did get hot. I am actually visiting home this week and it is only 55-60 since I have been here....cold!!

For now I went with the mech version, but I want the CSR elec version bad. I just dropped in the new engine and installed a new March under drive pulley set up and was worried about an elec water pump and a dual elec fan. I do not want to replace the alt again because of the lack of power (amps). I also need to install an elec fuel set up to do the NOS correctly so that is even more amps.

There is so much to do as I am in the middle of switching everything over to AN fittings throughout the car.

So you about to install an elec fuel and water pump?

What show is next on your list…we should get together again soon.

Darin
Old 06-12-2006, 08:59 PM
  #71  
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Darin... We just returned from a week in Colorado...nice about 60 in the mountains...back in the DFW heat now... 104 today!

I did the March underdrive pulleys with an Edelbrock water pump, Dewitt radiator and dual spals... no issue with the cooling...in fact one comment I read was that the reduced flow allowed the radiator to work more efficiently as the water is in there longer...don't know about that theory...but all is working Great for me....you should be OK.

The alternator was a different story.... the reduced pulleys slowed down the unit to the point that it would discharge at idle and really struggle when the fans were on and low engine RPMs. I ended up removing the new pulley from the alternator and went with the original chrome pulley that came with the unit... all is OK with the charging system now.

I'm going to need to do something with my fuel pressure as it's been dropping for the past couple of weeks....now about 2.5lbs...must be the pump giving out....filter is OK. Am thinking about going with an electric pump as I really liked your NOS setup at the show. Have some questions for you on the NOS the next time we are out.

We should check out the Cruisers or Burger Street shows when you are back on the road. My 80 is back at JBs getting some small items taken care of following the exterrior facelift.

Ed
Old 06-12-2006, 11:21 PM
  #72  
MikeC
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Originally Posted by 76 sting
The 55GPM I mentioned is an elec and a few folks said that you do not want too much flow as the radiator may not have the chance to cool the water down before re-entering the engine.
Thats why you run a thermostat. It will control the flow of water through the rad and thus control the output of your pump.
Old 06-13-2006, 03:43 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by MikeC
Thats why you run a thermostat. It will control the flow of water through the rad and thus control the output of your pump.
That's what I was wondering about. It seems like the thermostat is the most restricted area of the system....so only a certain amount of water is going to pass through, no matter how much you are capable of. Larry
Old 06-13-2006, 04:05 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by iNdigo
well, i'd certainly have to see this in a controlled experiment to believe it... i'm not about to disconnect my alternator output terminal while the engine's running.

i'm assuming the reasoning behind your statement is that the electromagnetic field changes intensity depending on load or RPM, and when the field becomes more powerful it produces some sort of magnetic resistance to the direction of rotation?

I still don't see how this could make a significant difference. Then again I'm running a 140A alternator, so maybe I just don't notice the difference.

intriguing to say the least. do you have some references you can point us to, i'd like to read more about it.
The next time your head is under the hood of a vehicle with electric fans, listen to the engine rpm's drop momentarily as the fans come on. If it weren't for the computer idle speed control motor, the rpm drop at idle would be significant, proving the additional load on the alternator uses more engine power. The same principal is used on "Eddy-current" dyno's. The engine is loaded down by changing the magnetic field around a generator...
Old 06-13-2006, 05:23 PM
  #75  
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Check out the Stewart mechanical water pumps (thru Eckler's), mine made a big difference, and it was under $80.00.
Old 06-13-2006, 06:17 PM
  #76  
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anybody rebuilt their W/pump ?????
Old 06-13-2006, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 80TexasC3
I'm going to need to do something with my fuel pressure as it's been dropping for the past couple of weeks....now about 2.5lbs...must be the pump giving out....filter is OK. Am thinking about going with an electric pump as I really liked your NOS setup at the show. Have some questions for you on the NOS the next time we are out.

We should check out the Cruisers or Burger Street shows when you are back on the road. My 80 is back at JBs getting some small items taken care of following the exterrior facelift.

Ed
Ed 2.5lbs? What is the PSI and do you have a regulator? If you thinking about the NOS than I would strongly suggest an elec. fuel pump if you have to buy one anyway not too expensive and it will be done right. I put in a Holley mech. fuel pump for the Holley 4150 with a regulator and all is fine. I am actually going to do the same thing for the NOS by adding a new dual fuel metering block. One fuel inlet for the 4150 regulated and another for the NOS regulated. This way both can be independently regulated with the proper PSI.

As soon as I get back I need to take off the Holley and clean her out. I needed to get her back in my garage before I left for vacation and skipped the fuel filter. I just mad it home as the mech. secondary float got dirt in it and stuck open. Now it always thinks the fuel bowl is empty and poures fuel in all the time.

Talk about black smoke…..

I can get together as soon as I get back and clean the Holley out.

Old 06-13-2006, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by comp
anybody rebuilt their W/pump ?????

You could I think, but it would not be worth my time, maybe yours though.

125 bucks or less and you have a brand new one.




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