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Anyone see any reason not to go with a 1 pc seal block? Blocks are the same price & the 1 pc block accepts hyd roller cams w/o modification or link bars. Going in my 79 with a TH400 behind it.
GM didn't change the rear main seal design after 50+ years because they though it would "look cool". Think about it, a split seal that has TWO more places to leak or one seal that doesn't have these splits. I'll leave the decision up to you but have you ever replace a rear main seal while the engine is in the car? I have and it's not that fun. Go with the one piece.
Earlier 2-piece blocks tend to be thicker and cast with better material, particularly the 010/020 blocks. They would be the hot ticket for anything over about 450 - 500 hp that you plan to beat on regularly. For a good, hot street build 350 or 383, go with the 1-piece for less seal problems and ability to use inexpensive factory hydraulic rollers. If you're going to stroke it to a 383, cranks are about the same price.
I was looking at a one piece rear seal block because of the factory roller lifters. I think this is definately a good way to go. I ended up buying a 400 block, so I got a 2 piece rear seal.
Earlier 2-piece blocks tend to be thicker and cast with better material, particularly the 010/020 blocks. They would be the hot ticket for anything over about 450 - 500 hp that you plan to beat on regularly. For a good, hot street build 350 or 383, go with the 1-piece for less seal problems and ability to use inexpensive factory hydraulic rollers. If you're going to stroke it to a 383, cranks are about the same price.
You can get 1-pc blocks made from good stuff too. I have a 1-pc 4-bolt block from a '90 1-ton cube van. They have better materials than the 1/2 ton and probably Vette blocks too.