When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need to shorten my rear sway bar for tire clearence, thought about cuttting some out of middle, slip a piece of pipe over it, welding back together. then put pipe over weld to help. not sure what heat will do to sway bar. anybody done this?
I need to shorten my rear sway bar for tire clearence, thought about cuttting some out of middle, slip a piece of pipe over it, welding back together. then put pipe over weld to help. not sure what heat will do to sway bar. anybody done this?
Sounds like a very dangerous idea. You KNOW it will let go in the most demanding corner.....
It's a perfectly sound idea. You actually end up making the bar slightly stiffer because the whole length of the long shaft is where it twists. You have to let it cool slow so you don't crystallize the steel.
I need to shorten my rear sway bar for tire clearence, thought about cuttting some out of middle, slip a piece of pipe over it, welding back together. then put pipe over weld to help. not sure what heat will do to sway bar. anybody done this?
I'm going to be confronted with the same problem when I install my offset Trailing arms (I wish a vender would solve this problem for us). What you are proposing is an almost garenteed failure. The bar is a torsion spring and you are proposing to cut and weld the spring portion of the bar, not a good idea. There was a post a short time back where a member methodicaly heated and bent the arms at the bends. The arms are in a non-critical area, but the bends incorporate some of the torsion bar, so I don't know how this will work. Norval fabbed his own bar using a Speedway universal bar. The problem here is which bar to use, if you have a bar you are happy with, how do you match it ( hoping the smart guys will chime in).
It's a perfectly sound idea. You actually end up making the bar slightly stiffer because the whole length of the long shaft is where it twists. You have to let it cool slow so you don't crystallize the steel.
Interesting! What did you use to weld it? The [welded] joint would be subjected to all kinds of torsional and lateral stress which I would expect to ultimately cause it to separate.
It's been many years ago like 15+ when I used stainless steel rod to weld my sway bar. I did a normal weld where you grind the bars to a angle. My bar is a 3/4. So the first weld pass is down in the v-groove. The second two passes side by side are not much more in diameter than the original bar diameter.
Also many years ago I worked as a certified high pressure welder on air systems and steam.
It's not a big deal to weld spring steel. You can weld it so it doesn't break, but like I said before you will change it's properties without using correct retempering, inert gasses, rod type.
You could have a professional shop tig it for you.
No one as far as I know makes a shorter bar. I think the reason no one offers a shorter bar is b/c Addco wants something like 20K to make custom bars. It's hard for a lot of people to invest 20K in sway bars. Addco makes most of the bars for other companies as well,ie Hotchkis so most of the other sway bar vendors are out of the ? anyway.
I believe coleman racing sells solid straight bars and custom brackets. Give that a shot.
It's been many years ago like 15+ when I used stainless steel rod to weld my sway bar. I did a normal weld where you grind the bars to a angle. My bar is a 3/4. So the first weld pass is down in the v-groove. The second two passes side by side are not much more in diameter than the original bar diameter.
Also many years ago I worked as a certified high pressure welder on air systems and steam.
It's not a big deal to weld spring steel. You can weld it so it doesn't break, but like I said before you will change it's properties without using correct retempering, inert gasses, rod type.
You could have a professional shop tig it for you.
Dont be scared to modify it your self,if it breaks nothing will happen.and when you cut ,cut at an angle,then bevel the ends and use the piece of pipe over it.
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
Originally Posted by vetteaddic
Dont be scared to modify it your self,if it breaks nothing will happen.and when you cut ,cut at an angle,then bevel the ends and use the piece of pipe over it.
No bigger deal than busting an end link, I didn't notice mine for quite a while, mind you I don't race eather.