Adding headlight relays
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
no no, thanks for the explanation SIXFOOTER!
i was just trying to resolve stuff rattling in back of head from way back with new wiring schemes. i remember trying to get the "whine" out of stereo long ago (with no success) and looking at an image on the scope something like this (rough sketch; spikes were really longer):
the "experts" told me it was the spikes causing "noise" in my stereo. when walkmen were new, i sat in the car with the engine on and got the same noise over the walkman headphones. i then figured there was nothing i could put in the car's wiring to fix or filter that and finally gave up. never knew what caused those spikes, but seems like those type would do more damage than the occasional upset caused by switches. seems like the manual that came with the instrument gave an okay if there was a spike like above on about every 20 or 30 cycles, or something l like that. sorry for droning on. . . .
i was just trying to resolve stuff rattling in back of head from way back with new wiring schemes. i remember trying to get the "whine" out of stereo long ago (with no success) and looking at an image on the scope something like this (rough sketch; spikes were really longer):
the "experts" told me it was the spikes causing "noise" in my stereo. when walkmen were new, i sat in the car with the engine on and got the same noise over the walkman headphones. i then figured there was nothing i could put in the car's wiring to fix or filter that and finally gave up. never knew what caused those spikes, but seems like those type would do more damage than the occasional upset caused by switches. seems like the manual that came with the instrument gave an okay if there was a spike like above on about every 20 or 30 cycles, or something l like that. sorry for droning on. . . .
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
This a waste of time already. U need to read the original post again.
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Cardo, sorry if I steamed you with my post, was probly rude. But my point stands, Running a #10 from the alt to a term block for the lights and whatever else you need will bypass the horn circuit completely, all the current required for these devices will then have a shorter path to go, and since the lights/fans/watever only are in use with the engine running, all their current is supplied by the alternator, not the battery. You have a valid point about the contact resistance, however, with a properly crimped/soldered connection that resistance will be negligeable, especially in a short run like I proposed. This will not negatively affect the alternator in any way, and it will lighten the load on an old possibly weakened electrical system.
U can run a bigger alt, rewire everything with bigger wire all u want - i don't care. As the H/L switch and all the corroding teminations inbetween are whats suspect here. If u read his first post correctly, tshort was asking for the simplist and cheapest way to relay his lights Rewiring the alt with #8 ain't (like that MAD article tries to sell).
And BTW u have a major lack of understanding electricity. Electricty doesn't care if "all the current required for these devices will then have a shorter path to go". Current is only affected by circuit resistance and the resistance of #10 wire (or larger) between 3' or 6' is less than 1ohm - barely enough even to measure the voltage drop.
While u mention soldering i failed to see that in the MAD article. 1 more thing is many beginners have a difficult time soldering without a small amount of training to choose the correct heat iron/tip, solder, flux.
That MAD article could be helpful but it ain't gospel and may get someone involved much more than expected - like over thier head. They are trying to sell a product too - however MAD that is.
cardo0
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
I agree, thats why the guys big big watt stereos have problems with batteries and charging systems, even with a big amp alternator and THATS why you should run a seperate circuit off the alternator with appropriate sized conductors to run your hardware, and push them with an appropriate sized alternator.
All the current to run big accessories should be coming from the alternator, thats what it is there for, the battery is there to start the engine.
All the current to run big accessories should be coming from the alternator, thats what it is there for, the battery is there to start the engine.
lighting should be run off the alt directly, or the horn relay if 6-8 wire is coming off the alt to there....I may decide to run better lighting wiring, but mine works fine enough, and I do little night driving anyway, the camaro bulbs are bright enough as is...
GENE
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Thanks mrvette, guess I don't have to give all the money back that I have made over the last40 years in the electrical/electronic world and can keep my degree on the wall.
I think I'll do a paper on this, some pics and diagrams, clear up the concept.
I think I'll do a paper on this, some pics and diagrams, clear up the concept.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Thanks mrvette, guess I don't have to give all the money back that I have made over the last40 years in the electrical/electronic world and can keep my degree on the wall.
I think I'll do a paper on this, some pics and diagrams, clear up the concept.
I think I'll do a paper on this, some pics and diagrams, clear up the concept.
bet 90% of these kids ever even SEEN one....museum maybe....
GENE
