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I just got a Powermaster 140A chrome alternator (P/N PWM-37294) off Ebay for cheap but it's not clocked right for my car, do I just remove the bolts and twist the two haves and re-attach it? Thanks
Yep, had the same problem . Can't remember why but I had to remove the nut in front with an inpact too. Just don't pull it apart so you don't disturb the brushes.
If the brushes drop out of the brush holder, you need to compress the springs and push them back in. Then you use a straightened paperclip in the holes in the brush holder to hold them in place while you put the alternator back together again. Once you have the alternator clocked and assembled, you can pull out the paper clip through an opening in the housing and the brushes snap into place.
Amazingly easy to see once you are actualy looking at the brushes.
If the brushes drop out of the brush holder, you need to compress the springs and push them back in. Then you use a straightened paperclip in the holes in the brush holder to hold them in place while you put the alternator back together again. Once you have the alternator clocked and assembled, you can pull out the paper clip through an opening in the housing and the brushes snap into place.
Amazingly easy to see once you are actualy looking at the brushes.
-Mark.
I just put a chrome housing on my alt and had to learn the brushes trick the hard way
But you should only have to pull the screws and twist housing to the right position and put screws back in....I'd advise not pulling apart the housing if you can avoid it...trust me
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Just in case you pull the casings too far apart, I have a few pics so that you can see what you need to do to put it back together. In the first pic you can see what happens when you pull the housings apart and the brushes fly out of thier holders.
I was upgrading my alternator to a higher output and you can see the new parts. If you look closely at the white piece near the bearing you can just see the tip of a paper clip I used to hold the brushes in thier holder while the halves are put back together. When the halves are put back together and bolted, pull the paper clip out and you are ready to install the alternator.
The white triangulated piece is the voltage regulator on internally regulated alternators. The aluminum finned piece on the right is the heatsink for the diode trio.
Well I tried to re-clock this alternator but ran into some trouble. I was able to re-clock my stock 63A 10SI simply by removing the 4 bolts and pulling it apart slightly to clear the mount boss with one of the (other half’s) bolt boss’s, the two half’s are square in shape and they interfere with each other when twisted, I had to pull it apart slightly to clear this, I was also able to clock my stock 10SI it in several different positions by doing this.
This alternator is a 12SI ( here is what I got http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POWER...QQcmdZViewItem ) and I can’t separate it like this, I believe you have to remove the front pulley to separate it to clear these boss’s, it also has a fancy cone pulley end piece that I can’t figure out how to remove with out destroying it, It spins freely from the regular pulley. I think I’ll e-mail Powermaster our just wire it in the way it is, I’ll probably re-wire it because I e-mailed Powermaster 2 weeks ago and still haven’t heard back from them.
77 vette.....Mine has the purty cone in front too. Just pop it off with a screw driver.. it'll pop right back on. You will have to remove the front pulley....easy to do if you have an impact . I wish I could remember why, but it does have to come off....probably so you can slightly pull the housing forward about 1/16 inch so you can rotate it. I have the same altenator as you.
77 vette.....Mine has the purty cone in front too. Just pop it off with a screw driver.. it'll pop right back on. You will have to remove the front pulley....easy to do if you have an impact . I wish I could remember why, but it does have to come off....probably so you can slightly pull the housing forward about 1/16 inch so you can rotate it. I have the same altenator as you.
Thanks Dave, I'll give it a shot tomarrow after work
Ya know, after thinking about it, you could just remove the back and before putting it back, retain the brush with a paperclip like someone else said. Might be just as easy if you don't have an inpact.
Ya know, after thinking about it, you could just remove the back and before putting it back, retain the brush with a paperclip like someone else said. Might be just as easy if you don't have an inpact.
I tried prying it apart with no luck, that's why I think the front pulley must come off. I have an inpact and I look for reasons to use it
Ok I removed the front pulley from the Powermaster 12SI and still could not pull it apart, I pulled the stock 10SI apart to see inside and it all made sence, I pried the 12SI apart from several different angles and it popped apart , I think the Powermaster is made with higher toleranceses as it would not open up with out alot of pressuse from several different angles, I rotated the two halfs and re-attached the alternator. I think I’m ready to go.
This was interesting, and I know I’ll be able to help others in this area> Thanks Dave, Eddie, KB2FZQ, Mark and David. "YOU GUY'S ROCK"