vettetester

I finally found my 396 Stroker Kit at http://www.larrysperformance.com

it is a cast steel crank (SCAT) and had forged pistons, 11:1 compression on 64cc heads.
Price $1150 this is dang good from what I've seen so far.

So anybody heard of and used larrysperformance ????

trw

I have been watching their site for awhile, their prices seem good and the extras they do seem to be a good deal.

But do not know the quality of there work.

Terry

spokewrench

IF YOU DONT HAVE A PROBLEM WITH A CHINESE CRANK, THEN IT'S O.K.,HOWEVER LUNATI OFFERS A CAST CRANK MADE IN AUSTRLALIA AND MACHINED HERE FOR ABOUT $350.00 AND IF YOU ORDER IT FROM DALLAS EXPORT AND SALES THEY WILL BALANCE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY FOR ABOUT $210.00 " iT HAS TO BE BALANCED"

vettetester

I was under the impression that the SCAT crank was a very good one???
They said they build 396's all the time with them and I should have no problem with 450 HP and 550 TQ..

Ive gone to http://www.dallasexportsales.com/ but their site is bare and they dont even have a 1-800 number.
Have you used them before?
On their stroker page it says their blocks are rebuilt, is that good or bad.
I guess I'll shell out the LD to call them sometime today.

BTW the larrys performance has a section for assembled engines where you can get a 454 Chevy for $1895.00. I'll call them and see what all comes with the engine for that low of a price.

Anymore input from anyone would be wonderfull

gkull

Am I missing something?
http://www.larrysperformance.com/data/enginekits.html

I don't see a 396 listed. The 391 is just like my 393 3.835 stroke only I have a 4.040 bore instead of a 4.030 to make a 391. Speedomotive, where I got mine is a forged crank, forged 6 inch rods JE/SRP pistons good rings Clevite H barrings Internally balanced and it was @ $1800 to my door.

I would run not walk away from reconditioned rods. Why waste your money on forged pistons when you have S rods and crank.

This site is what i use to figure out CI and compression. So I tossed some figures in and with a .060 overbore you could call it a 396. But the ones I have seen were 3.875 strokers.
http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/motor.html

vettetester

I called them yesterday and asked them since they didnt have it listed
to get a 396 you use a 3.875 stroke and the bore to .03 over for a 395.4 or .04 over for a 397.4 but theres only a 5 tq difference in the .04 over so i was going to just go .03 over.
Also I asked a local shop and they said it would cost about 900 to do the machine work and install the kit for me...does that sound right?

gkull

This site should interest you engine builders.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7610/dyno.htm

gkull

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html

Just another option. This is how I ended up with a big buck 383

$900 sounds good to me. I think I paid $500 something to bore and blue print the 4 bolt block. I had to have that done because I was building a fully ARP studded motor or should I say motors because I made two a 393 racing short block and a 383 driver.

I did my own grinding for the rod bolts to clear the pan rails and assembled it.


This is my 393 when I was fitting it. The white on the studs is just white grease to add in quick assembly. But anyway it's from Speedomotive 4340 6 inch rod and interally balanced.

If your look close on the passenger side pan rail you can see my grinding for clearancing the rod bolts. It's almost done in that picture. How much your take out depends on the size of the rod bolts. I did take out a little more fore and aft for crank end play. If you didn't already know it, the oil pan rail is not square. It's smaller at the front and opens up on the way back. Also the way the rods and crank are, most of the grinding is all on the passenger side. It's not that big of a job - it's just time comsuming to assemble one piston at a time and rotate it 360 degrees and see how much grinding you have to do - Then clean it and go on to the next all the time worrying about the smallest metal flake dinging your micro polished crank or barrings. I used a Makita 25K rpm die grinder.

I do almost all of my engine work. Because then I know what's done and how it was done. I have a mistrust of some flunky in a machine shop that usually doesn't care. When you start getting $5-10K in a motor it's to much to loose.

GROSSPOLLUTER60

I would stay as far away from Larrys Performance as possible. They rebuilt my buddies 85 and it went to hell twice on him. The first time was in BG, which is 2500 miles away from home. It cost $750 at a chevy dealer in Memphis to patch it up enough to drive it home. 4 days worth of food and lodging not included in the $750. That turned a nice trip to BG into HELL because of these guys, needless to say I DO NOT RECOMMEND THEM!!!!!!!! I guess they were lucky it was my buddies car and not mine because he is a bit more understanding than I :boxing

vettetester

thanks for the warning..im guessing the lesson is going to be you get what you pay for??