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Tremec T56 six speed reverse selection

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Old May 7, 2006 | 04:54 AM
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Default Tremec T56 six speed reverse selection

Selecting reverse with the T56 it does not seem to hook up properly and jumps out of gear. Is there an adjustment I can make to improve the selection?

Thanks
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Old May 7, 2006 | 09:13 AM
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It's pretty straight foward. Somewhere you need a switch to activate the solenoid to engage reverse. There is a plunger that blocks reverse on the T56 that prevents accidental engagement at speeds over 5 mph.
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Old May 7, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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Thanks Budman, but I have the solenoid, I have it linked into teh brake light cables. so that when I press the brake it activates the solenoid.
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Old May 7, 2006 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Graemeinvette
Thanks Budman, but I have the solenoid, I have it linked into teh brake light cables. so that when I press the brake it activates the solenoid.

Did you have to cut the tunnel at all other than where the stick comes through to fit the T56? What model did you use?

Thanks
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Old May 7, 2006 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 74droptop
Did you have to cut the tunnel at all other than where the stick comes through to fit the T56? What model did you use?

Thanks
I bought it from D&D Engineering, its the same one as fitted to the Viper and yes the tunnel was cut, you can see how on my website at www.graemeinglis.com
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Old May 7, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Graemeinvette
I bought it from D&D Engineering, its the same one as fitted to the Viper and yes the tunnel was cut, you can see how on my website at www.graemeinglis.com

So, other than the shifter hole it clears the tunnel?
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Old May 7, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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Old May 7, 2006 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Graemeinvette
Thanks Budman, but I have the solenoid, I have it linked into teh brake light cables. so that when I press the brake it activates the solenoid.
Lights are a big current draw. Use the brake light voltage to activate a relay that provides full (12/13.8V) voltage to the solenoid on the transmission. You may not be getting full throw on the solenoid and is partially blocking the gate sometimes, allowing it to pop out of gear.

hth
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Old May 7, 2006 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 74droptop
So, other than the shifter hole it clears the tunnel?
Yup! The crossmember was the only other problem but a bolt in Bowtie solved that.
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Old May 7, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 73sbvert
Lights are a big current draw. Use the brake light voltage to activate a relay that provides full (12/13.8V) voltage to the solenoid on the transmission. You may not be getting full throw on the solenoid and is partially blocking the gate sometimes, allowing it to pop out of gear.

hth
Thats an interesting thought, where else could I connect the sensor to
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Old May 7, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Graemeinvette
Thats an interesting thought, where else could I connect the sensor to
Keep using the brake light signal for the sensor, but instead of wiring directly to the solenoid on the trans, use it to activate the relay, and send full voltage to the solenoid instead.
I guess you could also use the brake light switch on the pedal, but I would still advise using the relay in between as there isn't much current going through the switch (as well there shouldn't, too much current will burn those little switches up!)

Use something similar to horn relay, and you should be fine!

Edit: I guess I should also say that if this doesn't do the trick, then I have no idea!! I don't think there is any adjustment external to the transmission. If you break it down though, you might find the fork sticking, or not allowing full engagement of the reverse gear to the output shaft. Good luck, and let us (at least me!) know what the cure was, when you find it!

Last edited by 73sbvert; May 7, 2006 at 02:50 PM.
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Old May 7, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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THanks SBvert hat sounds like a plan, I only have to work out how to do that being an electrical philistine, I shall sleep on it. thanks again

G
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Old May 7, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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No prob!! I hope I help!

Also, make sure you go conservative on the wire too, suggest at least the same gauge wire as what you are connecting to, and stranded copper wire.
Figure probably 14 ga. from switch/lights to relay, and I wouldn't go with any less than 10 ga. from battery/alternator/full voltage source to relay, and relay to solenoid, but I usually go for overkill! (10 ga. handling about 30A in cable!)
Don't forget the return/negative cables too if you have connections for them. Use the same gauge wire as the signal it is returning.

Good luck and take your time, you've come a long way since you started this, you can do it!
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Old May 7, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Thanks, I will look at this, once I understand wgar your talking about Sorry only joking that sounds good info, I will let you know how I get on

Chers

G
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Old May 7, 2006 | 05:31 PM
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Graemeinvette before going through the trouble of hooking up the relay why not just run 2 wires direct from the batt to the solenoid and then try reverse? If it still pops out its not low voltage causing it.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 02:19 AM
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Again sound info Bahamasair, I will do that.
I worked in Nassau 10 years ago, I remember a guy there with a pretty serious C1 but no C3's.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 07:46 AM
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Who was the guy with the C1? There are a couple of C3s here now just none of them on the road lol. I am sick of this place and want to move back to England. Ive been alot of places in the world and never seen a more ignorant group of people than this island.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bahamasair
Who was the guy with the C1? There are a couple of C3s here now just none of them on the road lol. I am sick of this place and want to move back to England. Ive been alot of places in the world and never seen a more ignorant group of people than this island.
I cant remember his name now. A local guy.
I know what you mean about Nassau, after 6 months of it I got to flying to Miami for weekends and nipping up to Ft Lauderdale for a reality check!
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