1980 L48

I have my right rear tire is tipping inboard at the top. Was like this when I bought the car last fall. I adjusted the strut rod yesterday and at max adjust I am just short of verticle. So from a previous post I was told my strut bushings may be shot and will need replacement.

But I also was told to check the yoke play. I have on the driver side about .090" of play passenger side about .060". The TA are solid (no movement). From searches looks like .030 is spec.

My question is if I replace the strut rods only for now to get the wheel straight and do the yokes this fall will I do any damage to the rear end between now and this fall when I will have money? I do not race or drive hard I just cruise around with the wife. I am new to Vettes and spent most of my money to buy the car and I am learning as I go. This forum has been a huge help!!

Also, I was considering the adjusable rods versus stock- just seems like a better system for about $20 more.

Any thoughts would be appreciated

Darrel

 

Check that the yokes are not touching the diff case. As the yokes wear they push in towards the center of the diff and will eventually grind into the actual case.

 

I did check that and there is a gap when pushed in all the way. Is that the main item to be concerned about. This car only has 48K miles on it.

 

The yokes will also wear against the center pin in the diff carrier inside as they wear in. You should check it, but the dammaga (if any) is most likely already done. Read Gary's paper thru carefully, lot of good info on there.

 

The yokes/stub-axles having that much play will mushroom on the inside because they bang. This will lead to a PITA to r/r and leave metallic debris inside the diff...then the complete diff. has to be completely disassebled to remove the debris/metallic chunks that are inside the bearing cages.

Do a search; plenty of info on this.
And; classiccorvettes has the stub axles.
You will find it easier to remove the diff. and r/r the stub axles now vs. later.
When you remove the diff. to do the r/r'ing of the stub-axles, its the perfect time to r/r the strut-rod bushings (its right there and disassembled anyway)...poly bushings are cheap enough.
I can tell you know; bushings alone wont completely repair the gross negative camber you are experiencing....if the stub-axles are bad, you probably wont notice any help until they are changed.

Always change in pairs.

FYI--I did mine...very simple...stub-axles and bushings at the same time.
My u-bolts were grinding into the diff housing at 49k miles.
I had to disassemble the inside of the diff to remove debris.
The SA's were so bad, they beat the diff. seals into leaking...moron owner ran the diff. low...level always below the seals...only good thing to come from it was being able to see the wear pattern on my ring and pinion gears because of the stains...I didnt even need to shim a thing.
When I re-assembled; everything fell into place better than when it left the factory...go figure.
My positive camber adjustments were maxed out before...When I r/r'd the stub-axles and bushings; I actually had to set the camber eccentric at "0" or "neutral" to remove all the positive camber I just restored...plenty adjustments left now.

Top of tires "tipping in" = negative camber.
perfectly verticle = 0* or neutral camber.
Top of tires "tipping out" = positive camber.

Though our cars rear alignment specs differ from person to person, and driving characteristics...neg. camber is the norm...half a degree negative is average...more negative if auto-X'ing (or similar driving patterns).
Some drag racers like less neg. camber because of:
1>tire friction when "hooking up"
2>an increase of neg. camber when "hooking up" due to weight shift(see 1)
3>and most importantly...pre-loading for thrust angle when "hooking-up".

Strut rod bushings approx. 10 or 15 bucks a complete set (depending on vendor)

New Stub axles = approx. $125.00 (depending on vendor, HD add a few more $$)

rebuilt stub axles (I dont recommend) - $99.00 (depending on vendor)


GL


Jim

 

Jim, thanks for the information.

Do you have a link or instructions to do this? I think I can manage my way to get things off - its once I get into the differential that I need help.

I agree with you I should do it now versus after I hear some strange noises from the diff.

Darrel

 

Let me clarify a little. All I would attempt to do is remove the differential and replace the Yokes and cross shaft if needed, any more than that I would find a shop that I can trust.

So I just need instructions to remove the yokes, possible cross shaft and then reassemble and realign the rear end????

Thanks to all for any help

Darrel

 

I think Gary's ID is GTR1999..he has a very EZ informational write-up that will guide you...although I have never seen it; others have used it...I have done it before so I knew my way around the inside of the diff.

No need to change the pin for the spider gears as it is hardened...the stub axles are actually a "sacrificial element" per se'.
In other words..they want the SA's to wear and NOT the the inside diff. components.

Follow directions to remove the diff. from the car...r/r your SA's and seals...if no grinding is involved and SA's come out fairly EZ..no need to disassemble much more after close inspection.

You will see once the diff is out that you already have the strut rods half way off...its only a couple of more cotter pins and large castle nuts after that to r/r all the bushings on the SR's.
Energy suspension poly bushings usually have two sizes in their kits
...of course; the first bag I opened wasnt the right size
second bag...VIOLA!
...but, it was so EZ that I had my teen r/r those while I finished the diff.

I would suggest doing a search....there is tons of info....actually; use the "advance search" and check the archives...I honestly cannot tell you where they keep the write-up papers...I have never used them.

Maybe somebody can chime in and leave a link.

Some people have even r/r'd the SA's with the diff still on the car...I had to remove mine to disassemble and flush out debris.

Just take your time and search...remember;
"if a man can put it together; a man can take it apart"

Putting it back together correctly might be a horse of a different color though...lol

Seriously; get yourself an assembly manual if you dont have one...its all nuts-N-bolts...kinda like building a model when you were a kid.

It isnt that hard unless you have to have a need for micrometers and shims..then you will need other tools and probably a professional.

GL

Jim