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Harmonic Bal question?

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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:29 AM
  #1  
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From: Dyersburg TN
Default Harmonic Bal question?

I thought I had fixed my oil leak , leaking around crankshaft/timing cover , tore everything down put in a new seal , reinstalled parts and still leaking. When installing the crank will it "bottom out" at some point. I have about an 1" inbetween the back of balancer and the front of the timing cover , is it possible the balancer isn't installed on far enough?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 11:40 AM
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what method did you use to install the new forward crank seal in the timing cover?

is there a chance your crankshaft woodruff key is interfering with the provision in the balancer? i.e. key is too tall for balancer slot.

also, you're using a balancer install tool, right? i mean other than a sledge / mallet.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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I'm interested in this as well, I installed an 8in fluid damper on my 427, with a March serpentine setup. and after running it on my test stand the belt rides up on the back edge of the pulley. It seems that it is .25 forward from the rest of the pulleys. I cranked it on as far as it would go with the install tool (yes a real one ) but the key interfering makes sense to me. Going to pull it off and look at that tonight.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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the last setup i purchased seemed to have too much interference too. i called the balancer mfg with measurements and they said it was fine. i felt like i was going to strip the install too before getting half way home! i mic'd the crank and inside of balancer, honed the inside of balancer till i got about 0.001 in interference fit. then it went on right (as far as i'm concerned). i felt it stop against the crank sprocket. also, don't forget to put a little sealer around the woodruff key. without it there is a path for a small bit of oil to get to the outside and start slinging everywhere. 0.02
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Old May 10, 2006 | 01:32 PM
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From: Dyersburg TN
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yes I used a puller and a installer , pre oiled the seal , but I can't picture how tall the key was , might have to try and get a mirror and flashlight and see if I can see the keyway , the old seal wasn't "chewed" up like you might expect if the key was in the way , I think I either didn't install the balancer deep enough or it backed off the crank (the balancer bolt was only finger tight) , but it still took a good bit torque to get the balancer off. on reinstalling the HB I couldn't find any info on how far the balancer should be installed.

ok , my coffee just kicked in the key is on the outside of the crank , but on the inside of the HB , so there would be no way for the key to engage the seal , so.......any ideas
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Old May 10, 2006 | 01:36 PM
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Default Fluidamper vs. G.M. Damper

Originally Posted by iree75
I'm interested in this as well, I installed an 8in fluid damper on my 427, with a March serpentine setup. and after running it on my test stand the belt rides up on the back edge of the pulley. It seems that it is .25 forward from the rest of the pulleys. I cranked it on as far as it would go with the install tool (yes a real one ) but the key interfering makes sense to me. Going to pull it off and look at that tonight.
The "Fluidamper" and the factory BB's are dimensionally identical. The measurement from the surface that rests against the timing gear to the surface where the pulley mounts measures approximately 2.700". If the "Fluidamper" is "out" by .250" the chance is good it's not seated against the crank gear. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Hope this helps. We install ALL harmonic balancers with the
"Sunnen" pin press, but not before the "press-fit" is measured. As a rule "race" oriented dampers have to be fitted (honed) to make the .001"/.0012" required "interference" fit. The "Fluidamper" most times are the same size as G.M. also on that dimension and don't need add'l clearancing!
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:28 AM
  #7  
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From: AL
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Originally Posted by Todbo
I couldn't find any info on how far the balancer should be installed.
pretty sure it should be installed all the way down to the crank sprocket. it is the only thing keeping the back of the crank sprocket against the milled shoulder on the front of the crank.
Originally Posted by GOSFAST
The "Fluidamper" most times are the same size as G.M. also on that dimension and don't need add'l clearancing!
i don't think they should need add'l clearancing either, and talking to their tech, didn't sound like a common issue. however, the last damper i bought had way more than the recommended or required interference. some of the problem was the paint or powder coat on the inside and some was too much metal! i honed it to 0.001 interference and it worked great! (i'm glad it was too tight so that i could hone to fit instead of too loose; then have to send back).

Oh, you might also want to take the woodruff key(s) and trial fit into both pieces before install. sometimes those keys get little burrs on them from removal/installation. if you can't get it(them) to fit inside the damper, get some wet/dry 400 grit, lay on a flat bed or glass, add a little oil, and work in a figure 8 slowly, and keep trial fitting till it works. don't forget a dab of sealant [on the key(s)/in the groove] before final installation! good luck thanks for reading
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Old May 11, 2006 | 11:36 AM
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thanks guys , I'm going to get the install tool out and see if I can push it on a little further
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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If your using a used balancer before you install it look to see if
the surface is still smooth not worn, if its worn you will never get
a new seal to stop it from leaking.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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ttt
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Old May 12, 2006 | 10:12 AM
  #11  
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From: Dyersburg TN
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do you mean on the outside of the HB "collar" ? or do you mean the HB is wearing on the inside and creating some play on the surface inbetween the crank and the inside of the HB and that is somehow affecting the seal between the outside of the collar and the rubber seal?
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