Since my engine swap the A/C has not worked. Did not disconnect anything just pulled the compressor aside. It had been recharged just before and had been working fine. Now the clutch doesn't seem to be engaging. Any ideas?

 

It's possible that you are either low on freon or the relay isn't working. To check for fron pull the connector on the low pressure switch and use a jumper wire to connect both sides of the connector. If the AC comes on you are low on freon and will need a recharge. If nothing happens when you jump the connector it's possible that you have a bad relay. Check out the major vendors for a replacement.

 

Thanks, I'll check it out.

 

O.K. I used a jumper on the switch and the compressor came on. So I gress it needs a recharge. I spoke earlier today to my mechanic about converting to 134A and he quoted me a price of $166.00. Does anyone know if this is a good price?

 

sounds kind of low to do the job properly.....

sounds like he is only going to flush it out, add new oil, charge with 134a, and maybe adjust your pressure switch.....

it takes a bit more to do it correctly. i should think that you would pay about 2.5 times that for a good job.

 

Well then I hope he's just quoting me a good price since I do a lot of business with him. Between my cars, and my wife and daughters cars I have kept him bussy over the last couple of years.

 

A correctly complete R134 conversion will consist of completely disassembling the system and r/r'ing all the 0-rings to 134 0-rings which are different because of PAC oil (compressor oil...R134 0-rings have blue on them vs. just black regular old 0-rings)...then...purging evaporator, lines, and condensor...re-assemble with new drier and expansion tube...evacuate and recharge...check for leaks.

Even though you jumped your low pressure switch and the compressor kicked on...doesnt necessarily mean the system is low.
The LP-switch could of went bad...it takes gauges to correctly evaluate if the system is low of refrigerant...but the jumper is a good way to guess (usually is correct), and is needed to check pressures when the switch is not activating the clutch.
Pressures are checked with gauges...high side and low side at same time.
On the AVERAGE; pressures should be:
high-190 to 220 at high rpms...high ambient temp.
low-36 to 40 at high rpm's...high ambient temp.
these are regular R12 pressures...+ or - for different compressors and/or applications.

If the system is low...perfect time to convert.
If its just the LP switch that went bad...the system will have to be opened to r/r the switch anyway.

They also make an Enviro-Safe refrigerant for DIY.
Enviro-Safe

This refrigerant (claims) can be mixed with existing and no conversion needed.


GL



Jim

 

that could be......

i used to have a mechanic back in Tampa that our family had used for years. he gave me a hell of a deal on quite a bit of work that he did to my 73 for me.

 

also, i'm not sure how your 82 is,but on my 73 the ground wire for the compressor clutch bolts to the compressor bracket. if i move the compressor to the side this wire becomes unhooked.

is the wireing on your 82 anything like this? couold you have forgotten to reconnect a ground wire or something like that?

if your system is still r12, you can look at the site glass to possibly help you determine if it is low or not. a low system will show bubbles in the sight glass. in 73, the sight glass was on the VIR. not sure where it is on an 82 (if they even put one on an 82...)

good luck and i hope this helps.

Mike.