1980 Differential Removal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Royal Oak Michigan
1980 Differential Removal
1980
From a previous thread I have decided I need to look at my differential side yokes due to end play. Seems like the threads that I have read regarding removal of the differential was on pre-1980 Corvettes.
Is the rear set-up the same for 1980 as 1979 in terms of cross member and differential removal? Should they be removed still attached to each other?
Thanks for any help
Darrel
From a previous thread I have decided I need to look at my differential side yokes due to end play. Seems like the threads that I have read regarding removal of the differential was on pre-1980 Corvettes.
Is the rear set-up the same for 1980 as 1979 in terms of cross member and differential removal? Should they be removed still attached to each other?
Thanks for any help
Darrel
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 2
From: Castle Hills Texas
1980 was the first year of the aluminum rear end. The cross member is integrated (all one piece) with the differential cover. Don't know about the '79, though that beast is iron. If you remove the rearend with the differential cover still on, then the crossmember is coming with it. I just went through this with the guidance of Gerry72, Page62 and another former Vette owner this past weekend.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
it's only 3 bolts, 2 on the abtwing (1 each end) and 1 on the pinion mount. You do have to disconnect the driveshaft, which can be a little PITA w/ the bolts tucked up above the frame.
I would remiove the whole thing as 1 piece, easier to handle like that.
I would remiove the whole thing as 1 piece, easier to handle like that.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 2
From: Castle Hills Texas
You do have to disconnect the driveshaft, which can be a little PITA w/ the bolts tucked up above the frame.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Royal Oak Michigan
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
it's only 3 bolts, 2 on the abtwing (1 each end) and 1 on the pinion mount. You do have to disconnect the driveshaft, which can be a little PITA w/ the bolts tucked up above the frame.
I would remiove the whole thing as 1 piece, easier to handle like that.
I would remiove the whole thing as 1 piece, easier to handle like that.
Thanks for the input. Are you talking about the u-joint bolts?
Also, is it difficult to replace the bearings on the side yokes if they need it? They seem to be leaking a little.
Darrel
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
yes, the pinion yoke and side yokes all have caps, the bolts can be a pita to remove.
The side yokes are only supported by the roller bearings in the case, the carrier inside rides on conical bearings. The yokes themselves just slide in, into the splined part of the clutch pack & spider gears. The side yokes rest against the center pin. Your center pin will be worn, hopefully the yokes can be ground down smooth and reused, otherwise you have to buy recond. ones. Get a new center pin, they are smooth bore instead of the stepped stock model. You'll also need 2 new c clips for the pin and 2 tru arc retainers for the yokes:
The side yokes are only supported by the roller bearings in the case, the carrier inside rides on conical bearings. The yokes themselves just slide in, into the splined part of the clutch pack & spider gears. The side yokes rest against the center pin. Your center pin will be worn, hopefully the yokes can be ground down smooth and reused, otherwise you have to buy recond. ones. Get a new center pin, they are smooth bore instead of the stepped stock model. You'll also need 2 new c clips for the pin and 2 tru arc retainers for the yokes:
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: freehold NJ
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
yes, the pinion yoke and side yokes all have caps, the bolts can be a pita to remove.
The side yokes are only supported by the roller bearings in the case, the carrier inside rides on conical bearings. The yokes themselves just slide in, into the splined part of the clutch pack & spider gears. The side yokes rest against the center pin. Your center pin will be worn, hopefully the yokes can be ground down smooth and reused, otherwise you have to buy recond. ones. Get a new center pin, they are smooth bore instead of the stepped stock model. You'll also need 2 new c clips for the pin and 2 tru arc retainers for the yokes:
The side yokes are only supported by the roller bearings in the case, the carrier inside rides on conical bearings. The yokes themselves just slide in, into the splined part of the clutch pack & spider gears. The side yokes rest against the center pin. Your center pin will be worn, hopefully the yokes can be ground down smooth and reused, otherwise you have to buy recond. ones. Get a new center pin, they are smooth bore instead of the stepped stock model. You'll also need 2 new c clips for the pin and 2 tru arc retainers for the yokes:
Also, what color is the diff to be painted?
thanks, here's my before pic;
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Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 511
Likes: 4
From: Phoenix AZ
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
...You do have to disconnect the driveshaft, which can be a little PITA w/ the bolts tucked up above the frame.....
I don't know how anybody gets to those bolts on the 80-82 rear U-joint without cutting an access hole in the tunnel above. My hands just aren't that small. And if I did get the bolts out with a long extensions and all, there's no way I'd ever been able to get them back in.
