WTK: Transverse front spring adjustment experiences
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,857
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
WTK: Transverse front spring adjustment experiences
Just doing some thinking here, and wanted some real world feedback. When adjusting the pivot points on these springs what sort of change did you detect on the roll stiffness or ride quality? Were small changes noticeable, or were major pivot location changes required to notice any difference? Thanks for your feedback.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 1
From: VetteMOD
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
I have not installed my front VBP spring yet (so I have no real world experience) but at the time I believe they told me that the change in spring rate from one hole to the next was 25lbs/in.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 9,206
Likes: 17
From: Sewell NJ
When I installed mine I set it at one hole from the softest setting. This gave me good control around corners but the rear felt light and if I hit bumps the tires didn't track very well. I changed it to the softest setting and got a better ride on bad roads without sacrificing anything noticeable in the corners. I can't imagine anyone using the stiffest setting unless they are going to autocross or circle track the car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 9,206
Likes: 17
From: Sewell NJ
Originally Posted by jofm3
I set mine to the stiffest setting and was amazed. Too stiff for the street by far, 2nd hole was still too stiff, I am now at the 3rd hole (of 4) and I like it. Hope this helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 8,220
Likes: 208
I started with the stiffest setting, way too harsh. Been driving aroung with the 2nd softest setting still quite rough. I just went for the softest setting, but I still have the car on jack stands because I'm waiting for some brake parts... 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Coupla other things:
Be certain that the rotating bracket (the one with the four adjustment holes) is not binding due to the munting bolt being too tight.
When you lower the front, you must cut the rubber bumper to allow sufficient travel before the bumper hits the frame. A full height bumper will only allow 1' or so of travel before it hits the frame. When this happens, it makes no difference what type spring or spring rate or type of shock absorber you have.
I've noticed that the bolts holding the adjustment brackerts tend to work loose. Use locktite or check them frequently.
Be certain that the rotating bracket (the one with the four adjustment holes) is not binding due to the munting bolt being too tight.
When you lower the front, you must cut the rubber bumper to allow sufficient travel before the bumper hits the frame. A full height bumper will only allow 1' or so of travel before it hits the frame. When this happens, it makes no difference what type spring or spring rate or type of shock absorber you have.
I've noticed that the bolts holding the adjustment brackerts tend to work loose. Use locktite or check them frequently.
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Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,857
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
I appreciate the feedback, guys. I don't currently have a transverse spring on the front (I'm finishing up putting a C4 suspension on the spare frame), but I'm undecided about putting coilovers or a transverse spring up front. Currently I'm building the crossmember to be able to install either. Quick question though. IIRC, the VB&P adjustment bracket has four holes on each side. Which way are you moving the pivots to soften or firm up the ride? I think I know, but would like an experienced answer.
Thanks a bunch!
Thanks a bunch!
