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Can someone please provide details on how to remove the U-Joints on my 68 vette. Need to remove the originals from the driveshaft and halfshafts. Have a press just need some detailed guidance.
Also, where can I get new replacement ones? (best bang for my buck)
Thanks
Hammer one cap of the U-joint down further into the driveshaft, the cap on the other side will then slide out. Remove that cap, then hammer it back down in the opposite direction, pushing the other cap out of the driveshaft. Remove that cap. Then you should be able to pull it out. Make sense or do I need to give better details?
So don't use the press? These u-joint end caps have cylinrical bearings in them, right? When hammering one end to where the other cap pretrudes out, won't these bearings fall out? This will work to take the old ones off, but how do i put the new ones in without losing the bearings? I'm trying to work my way thru a mental picture before actually cursing and breaking them.
Aside from where I should purchase the new u-joints from, is it also a good idea to replace the u-joint retainer brackets that bolt to the other side? and where can I get those? (can't remember tech term for them at the moment, i'm running on 3 hrs of sleep)
Thanks
There are probably tools just for it, but you can use some sockets with your press, better than banging on it. use one just smaller than the top cap to push down and use a larger one below that the bottom cap can fall into. This method supposedly works pretty well if you have a large bench vise so I'd think the press would be similar. My vise was just barely too small to do this, so i got a loaner u-joint tool from autozone, basically a big C-clamp you can put an impact gun on.
There are probably tools just for it, but you can use some sockets with your press, better than banging on it. use one just smaller than the top cap to push down and use a larger one below that the bottom cap can fall into. This method supposedly works pretty well if you have a large bench vise so I'd think the press would be similar. My vise was just barely too small to do this, so i got a loaner u-joint tool from autozone, basically a big C-clamp you can put an impact gun on.
This is more or less how I've done it. I also picked up a tip that I like. Take a cut off wheel and cut the joint just to the inside of the cap at both sides. Once you have it separated then you have the two caps in the yokes. Use a large socket on the inside and press on a smaller socket from the outside. Keeps from bending the yokes.
I wasn't able to maneuver my drive shaft like the half shafts to my vise, so I ended up hammering them out using the same method.
Alright, I'm getting the idea of how to remove them, is this how you install also? Just press them on? worried about the bearings.
Any idea where I can purchase new ujoints and retainer brackets?
Thanks for the info!
autozone has brute force u-joints for something like $15 each. Spicers are a little better, but the BF's are still beefier than the ones that came out of mine.
Which retainer brackets are you talking about? the straps that hold the u-joints to the yokes? I'd reuse them as long as they're still in good shape. Otherwise you can try an autoparts store, should be a pretty generic part.
Break down & buy a U-joint press. Makes it fast & easy. I didn't take notice to where you're from but if it's New Jersey, you can borrow mine. After you get them together, whack the round "ears" apart to spread them back out. They will compress together a bit so this will put them back where they belong. Just go to Carquest or Napa, they'll have them, personally, I think the ones WITHOUT the grease fittings are stronger. If you do get the ones WITH the fittings, make sure you face them the right way when you install or you won't be able to grease them. If I remember correctly, they should face toward the end of the shaft that they are closest to, not 100% on that tho. Hope that helps.
Bill
Note that there will be retainers on the caps. They can be inside or outside retainers. Remove them first. Also the joints will NOT push all of the way out. The body of the joint will bottom out on the yoke before the cap falls out. You will have to pull the cap the rest of the way out with vise grips. Also Take one of the old joints with you to the parts store for checking the new parts. They brought out 3 different numbers before they got the right ones. The drive shaft takes different joints than the half shafts. When reinstalling, the grease in the new caps should hold the needle bearings in place. There is also a plate that is recommended that bolts to the half shafts to keep them from distorting.
Your old U-joint girdles should be fine. Mine were. Use a lot of WD 40 when installing the new ones.
As far as the needle bearings falling out, they'll probably fall out when you take out the old ones. But when on the new ones when you remove the caps, they will stay in place. Just be careful. Make sure that the U-joint is lined up with the cap when you hammer the caps back on, otherwise you might knock the needle bearings out of place.
Guys I don't believe in force. While I have presses up to 60 ton at my dispossal I refuse to use any of them.
Force bends the yokes. Also a special warning on the half shafts, you can not change the outer bearing without a support on the flange. the support bolts to the flange and prevents the ears from getting bent.
This is to me the absolute best way to change U joints.
I take a cutting torch and cut out the old joint. While the driveshaft is still hot I walk the caps out with a air chissel. I just take the shaft in one hand and the air chissel in the other and out comes the caps.
I then take a flapper wheel and carefully clean the bore of the yoke. Then with the shaft in a vise I carefully file the sides of the yoke for the clip. Grease of oil it well and then with the shaft in a vise and a little brass hammer walk the joint and caps into place, very light tapping, no real force and lots of lube.
My son runs a auto repair shop evenings as a side line and I have watched him countless times do it. No force, just skill and the joints last.
If you hammer/beat/press without car the alignment and roundness of the yoke is damaged, sure you press the new joint in the the life of the joint is greatly reduced.
You will bend the outer 1/2 shaft flange if you do it the force way without a proper support tool.
Good luck
Joints are made to go in with only a little force, not much more then finger tight.
Take the time to clean everything, debur, grease and gentle on reinstalling them.
.
Force bends the yokes. Also a special warning on the half shafts, you can not change the outer bearing without a support on the flange. the support bolts to the flange and prevents the ears from getting bent.
those outter half-shaft yokes are VERY easily bent.
Norval is correct, burn them out and polish,not bore or hone, the yokes. Use some emery cloth to clean them up. Bolt the flanges to the spindle flanges or use flat thick piece of steel to bolt them to. I use a press to assemble but I don't need a lot of force. I want the new caps to be snug fit.
autozone has brute force u-joints for something like $15 each. Spicers are a little better, but the BF's are still beefier than the ones that came out of mine.
Which retainer brackets are you talking about? the straps that hold the u-joints to the yokes? I'd reuse them as long as they're still in good shape. Otherwise you can try an autoparts store, should be a pretty generic part.
The Brute Force are made by NEAPCO.....just as good as Spicer IMO. I just replaced all six of mine with the BF.