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Rear compartment door frame

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Old May 16, 2006 | 07:01 AM
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Default Rear compartment door frame

I'm replacing the frame and drilled out the aluminum rivets holding the hinges on. What can I use to attach the hinges to the new frame? It seems that screws and nuts would stick out to far.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 07:40 AM
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I have not seen the new frame, but my guess would be rivets again. Not 100 % though..............
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Old May 16, 2006 | 07:48 AM
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The new frame is identicle to the old frame. The rivets that was used had very flat heads on both ends, maybe 1/16" thick. Anything thicker would interfere with the doors closing, or the frame setting in the floor recess.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 08:27 AM
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I'm pretty sure that most rivets are no thicker than 1/16", especially in the size that you would need. I think that a 1/8" rivet should work, but to be honest it's been a while since I took out my rear compartments (resto), so 1/8" rivet is a guess........
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Old May 16, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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The holes are 3/16", but 3/16 pop rivets are going to stick out to far because there will need to be a washer used against the plastic.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 08:40 AM
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Sorry if I'm ignorant here, but if a rivet was used before to attach the hinges, why not use a rivet again? When you drilled out the rivets, did they not seem like standard ones? Maybe I should shut-up now before I give you wrong info...............
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Old May 16, 2006 | 08:58 AM
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The rivets they used had heads that were 1/16" thick. I don't have any way to use the same rivets that they did. I only have pop rivets, which will stick out a lot farther.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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I scratched around at my local hardware store and came up with a box of small, flat head, chrome screws about 1/4" long. Worked fine and fit the holes in the frames prefectly. No interference.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 11:44 AM
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In 68, the factory used screws, so I did too...
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Old May 16, 2006 | 11:57 AM
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you should be able to get rivits like what you removed at ACE hardware. they will have a head on one end then you form a head with a ball peen hammer on the other end so that you have something like the original.

screws sounds a whole lot easier if you can find some that will work though... i would look into screws first.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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Dr Rebuild has correct rivets. Don't use pop rivets.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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Working on this same project.

Venders sell the correct rivets. But they are not pop rivets.
Just need to find the correct tool to install these things correctly.
A hammer is not working.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 12:27 PM
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If they are not pop rivets they are solid rivets, the proper tool is a rivet gun similar to a zip gun but with a different diameter bore and snaps to accomodate the rivet head. The hammer method will work but you need a good heave bucking bar on the factory head and peen the stem with your hammer.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 01:25 PM
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Harbor freight has a pneumatic riveter for 29.99 plus shipping. You will still need some kind of anvil to backup the rivet.

http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...eyword=riveter
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 02:17 PM
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I always love a good excuse for a new tool!!!!
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 71rdster
Harbor freight has a pneumatic riveter for 29.99 plus shipping. You will still need some kind of anvil to backup the rivet.

http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...eyword=riveter
those are all pop riveters. won't work for solid rivits.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mdj21
those are all pop riveters. won't work for solid rivits.
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