pitman arm: does this look right?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 162
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pitman arm: does this look right?
Just put my steering components back on yesterday. I was wondering about the pitman arm though. I cleaned up the splines on both the steering box output shaft and pitman arm, put oil on the splines, and torqued it to 160 ft/lbs, but it just dosen't look like it's on all the way. I couldn't find my "before" pics of the steering box either. Does it look right to you guys?
Also, I torqued it with the steering box mounted on the frame. Before tightening the big nut, the lash was good. But after, I needed to readjust the lash. Is that to be expected?
Also, I torqued it with the steering box mounted on the frame. Before tightening the big nut, the lash was good. But after, I needed to readjust the lash. Is that to be expected?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Thanks guys! The forum comes throught yet again. This means I'll be moving on to the brakes now...
What about the lash question though. After torquing the nut, I noticed a lot of play in the box which wasn't there before. I simply re-adjusted the lash a little and it was fine. Think that's something to worry about?
What about the lash question though. After torquing the nut, I noticed a lot of play in the box which wasn't there before. I simply re-adjusted the lash a little and it was fine. Think that's something to worry about?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
from memory, i think that the bearing preload is something like 6 in-lb. you set that with the big nut on the input side. then with the lash adjuster, set to about 14 in-lb across the center. i'd check those values before setting, but you get the idea. it doesn't sound like much, but it's tighter than you'd think.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
The lash is best set disconnected from the pitman arm. I set the bearing preload prior to installing the pitman shaft when rebuilding a box. The lash should be set to 11-12 on center with the correct preload. 14 is too much and will wear the gear faster. Torquing the pitman shaft nut should not have caused the lash to change- if it was correct to start with. I've torqued a lot of them in a bench vise without any changes. Was this box rebuilt or used as is? I would check this out now while you can.
Here is the top of the pitman shaft with the T slot and lash screw. This screw should be set with a gap less then .002" Many times stock boxes are .007-.009"
Here's a break down of what the gears look like.
This is the only tool I trust to accurately set the lash and preload- 0-30in/lbs dial wrench.
Here is the top of the pitman shaft with the T slot and lash screw. This screw should be set with a gap less then .002" Many times stock boxes are .007-.009"
Here's a break down of what the gears look like.
This is the only tool I trust to accurately set the lash and preload- 0-30in/lbs dial wrench.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
gtr1999:The lash is best set disconnected from the pitman arm. I set the bearing preload prior to installing the pitman shaft when rebuilding a box. The lash should be set to 11-12 on center with the correct preload. 14 is too much and will wear the gear faster.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
Originally Posted by S489
I didn't have a reference in front of me; i was counting on someone who did! i agree that if you have the sector off, or if ongoing work will require an alignment anyway, these adjustments are sort of no brainers. the only tool most may not have is the torque wrench, and it's just about impossible without it. just go ahead, do a search and get one. you may find a good deal or just pay going rate. either way, you will end up using it a lot more than you might imagine, e.g., setting the pinion preload on the rear diff.
As for the 14 spec no problem, I have set some road race boxes up to 14 but told the owners about them wearing faster. Street cars need the 11-12 max. I set new gears to 11-11.5.
You also bring up a good point on alignment. More then one alignment shop has over-adjusted lash on the boxes while attempting to "help".
I include directions with my jobs stating that further adjustment is not to be made to the box after I finish them. I witness mark the lash and preload set points too so the car owners know if there were adjustments made to the box.
