I have been looking to have the original engine redone in my 82. I want the car to be stock looking when it's finished. I want to leave the crossfire injection on the car and do some mild mods. I have been quoted $2,700.00 to remove the engine, disassymble, bore it .030, new pistons, remachine and balance the crank, new cam and bearings, rework the and modify the heads and reinstall. I am told that I should be able to get around 300 hp out if it when it is finished and have a nice engine for a weekend driver. Is this a fair price to keep the car numbers matching?

 

reworking the stock heads is a waste of money. 2700$ sounds high for a basic rebuild.

 

Dissassembally is the easy part, just be careful and take your time. Do that yourself and then take the block in for machining and you can have them assemble it if you want to. Then you can take the difference and buy some decent aftermarket heads. JMO

 

I checked prices last Friday.
I bought better heads completely assembled than it would cost to rebuild my old heads the right way for todays fuel (exhaust seats), 4 angle valve job, stainless steel valves, ect...

It was a no brainer...and I stashed my old heads to preserve them.

I did a few items like this...I removed the stock "numbers matching " parts, rebuilt them, stashed them, and put on what I call "service parts".
(ie. carb, heads, ram horns, emmisions removed *and not to be replaced*, valve covers, ect...)

This way; I can drive, break, bend, paint, or whatever to the service parts, and preserve the NM parts for a later date, or resell if need be.

Basically' I have pack-ratted the parts the car came with, and have junked up my shop....
Thats the bottom line


Actually; I believe $2700. is a good price to remove, rebuild, re-install, and then re-start the motor...I am not sure about the 300 horses being factual like he quoted though with those parts.
But; a *good* crate motor is about the same is you have it shipped...and either you do the labor at that cost...or....add more $$ for somebody else to do it.

The way its written above; I would say *maybe* 225 RWHP with stock spec parts along with stock parts on a .030 bore.

I could be wrong ...but I guess I think more along the lines of logical terms vs. doing the math using "approx. % of HP increase" or "up to XXX increase in HP" as a basis of what is *actual* RWHP when finished.




GL



Jim

 

http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=22746

*Free 48 State Shipping
Price $2,769.95
330-HP/380-TQ

just something to consider.....

 

If you can do the engine pull yourself and save the labor cost
consider a new gm long block and reuse your factory fuel injection.
this way you end up with a modern hyd. roller cam and one peice
rear seal and should be able to meet the 300 hp goal easy. when
it comes time to sell your car some day then you can put the original
engine back in the car.

 

That was pretty close huh?...lol

A complete engine swap with start-up for $2700.00 is pretty cheap...not unheard of, just a *real* good price.

Sometimes the price comes this low by using "other than original" parts.
It's hardly ever this low using factory NM parts, and rebuilding *just NM parts*.
Its more expensive for just NM parts* individual parts, and is more down time, more employees to work the machines, more machine work, ect...

Keeping parts low $$:
A.> they have some already rebuilt and install those.
B.> Aftermarket.

If it's B ; I think the 300 FWHP goal is attainable, or close enough to RWHP, and either one is a way to have faster *completed service* too.






A $2795.00 crate motor has to be installed,
and started/road worthy. = more $$$

or

$2700.00 plus tx. = turn-key

...but with what/who's parts?..."do I really have 300 RWHP for $2700.00?"....afterall; thats what I was told...and I believed I was paying for. (ok...thats only nitpicking )

Then they got the ole:
"are those really *my* parts?"
"whadda ya mean you milled my serial #'s off of the block and other parts?!????"


IMHO



Jim

 

You did ask for opinions:

I think you need to evaluate your goals (adding 100 hp) and determine what parts and combinations will get you there best. I think building up the engine with reworked stock heads and leaving the induction and exhaust system stock would not be in your best interest. Your new engine will be choked in the front by the stock intake, throttle bodies, and fuel delivery and choked again on the exhaust side with restrictive welds in the header and old plate style cat converter.

Do yourself a favor and go over to the cross fire forum and read up a on what people have done and what there results were. Probably some of the most CrossFire modification knowledge around.

http://www.crossfire.webhop.net/

Just .02 worth I’d say:
--------------------
Rebuild engine (quality parts)
Aftermarket heads with good quench pad and flow
Cam shaft chosen to match your engine and driving style
Ported stock intake
TBI’s bored to 2in and make FPR adj.
85+ fuel pump
Headers (1 5/8)
True dual exhaust (no cats or high flow if you have to)
7747 computer w/ add-ons for tuning)