Building a 540
I could get a 571 for exactly the same money but only in a tall deck and that requires me to use spacer for my intake. I have an honest weeks worth of work in the blower intake and don't want to scrap it.
I am trying to take the easy way out
A 540 would replace the 460 I have now and everything would bolt right up, no header problems either or distributor problems.
It would be internally balanced, not assembled because I want to check everything myself.
I will continue to run the blower but the boost will drop because of the extra large cubic inch but I would like 9 to 1 compression because of this.
Anyone have experience with Ohio Crank, any bad feedback??
The company is only 7 hours from my place so I would go personally to the shop to pick up the engine but check clearances before paying.
Any feedback on this would be appreciated???





That being said your car will be even more of a monster.
BTW Norval you can run a 572 in a short deck, 4.560x 4.375 or 4.625 x 4.25. With steel rods the 4.375 crank will fit one of the after market blocks just fine.
That being said your car will be even more of a monster.
BTW Norval you can run a 572 in a short deck, 4.560x 4.375 or 4.625 x 4.25. With steel rods the 4.375 crank will fit one of the after market blocks just fine.
I really want just a 4.500 bore so my cylinder walls stay extra thick. They would put a 588 together for me, short deck and all but I don't want a 4.625 bore. I want a reliable block and I am taking the easy way out with a small 540 Everything and I mean everything is a straight bolt on from the old 460.
I could go bigger in the blower but agian when is enough enough. I think this will be it for me once the 540 is in.
Price a 10-12 or 14 series blower?? They run close to $5000 alone. No I will stick to the 8-71 and hopefully the motor can use everything it can put out.
I will up the compression to 9-1 from the present 8-1 because of the lower boost.
If I run a simple 5-7 pounds of boost with the 540 it will be more then enough power to do what I want.
I will order the motor around the first of August, 3 weeks shop time and drive down and pick it up the end of August and make it my winter project.
I have seen dyno runs in the high 900 horse range with these low boost numbers and it shouldn't be too hard on the motor..
If my motor can take everything the 8-71 can put out I will be happy and should have enough power to put a smile on my face.
Thanks guys
Yep 8x71 and it's a 2 stroke to boot. My buddy has antique trucks and I found him a really clean 1973 Ford L9000 twin screw tractor with a 871 Detroit/13 speed.
318 horse and GOBS of torque. She checks in around 20,000 lbs and will twist the frame just blippin the throttle. Sounds just to cool.
That blower looks huge on Norval's BBC, you gotta look close on the Detroit to see the blower in th Vee...
Anyway Norval has the right idea... Way Way to much is ok for now





You might look into upgrading to one of the Callies cranks. You can also get them with two keyways already cut for blower.
The basic Callies. Eagle, SCAT, SRP stuff is good. I would stay away from the CAT branded stuff and really look closely at the *house brand* cranks and rods because that is what many of them are. You just have to check. Competition Products has some pretty sweet deals on components. if nothing else order one of their catalogs....lots of good stuff in there at good prices.
What pistons will you spec? 4032 or 2618 material? Where will you put ringlands? What rings? Have you studied the Napier style 2nd rings? They will provide great oil control without as much tension.
JIM
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I will have to just run my present setup on the 540 and see how it works. Who knows what crazy idea I will get next. I keep saying that after the next mod I am going to quit but that day might be way down the road.
You might look into upgrading to one of the Callies cranks. You can also get them with two keyways already cut for blower.
The basic Callies. Eagle, SCAT, SRP stuff is good. I would stay away from the CAT branded stuff and really look closely at the *house brand* cranks and rods because that is what many of them are. You just have to check. Competition Products has some pretty sweet deals on components. if nothing else order one of their catalogs....lots of good stuff in there at good prices.
What pistons will you spec? 4032 or 2618 material? Where will you put ringlands? What rings? Have you studied the Napier style 2nd rings? They will provide great oil control without as much tension.
JIM
I asked about upgrading my rods to severe duty and they said at the power level I am looking at it is not necessary.
Pistons? I don't know yet, until I order the motor and really ask specific questions I don't know who's brand.
As for the dual keyways that is a good suggestion. I machined my own dual keyway in my present crank but they can do it so much easier and at the same time machine the fluid damper for the dual keys.






It should beat a ricer, man you guys are power brokers!





