I am rebuilding the front suspension as i have the money to replace parts. I was wondering if it was possible to remove the upper control arm without having to dissassemble the lower ball joint, or remove the spring. I was thinking i would put a spring compressor on the spring, and try to remove the upper control arm, is this possible so I can do the upper ball joint and the control arm bushings this weekend?-Travis

 

You can remove the upper control arm independent of the lower.

I am not even sure you would have to compress the spring with a spring compressor. Just put a jack under it, jack it up a little.
Then undo the main castle nut on the upper ball joint, seperate the joint, remove the two inner bolts (a-arms to frame mounting (keep shims togeather to put them back in same places)). When done, slowly lower the lower a-arm. The shock will limit travel.

 

Just curious, were the lowers done before? The lowers take the beating. You're that close, if they weren't done before, I'd do the lowers also while you are at it.

 

78Vette, nope the ball joints are original upper and lower, i plan on replacing all of them in the next month but i can only buy some parts at a time. So I will do the upper first becuase I can do this w/o removing the spring. BTW anyone have an Idea of what type of paint I should use on the control arms?-Thanks TK

 

When I re-did mine, sand blasted the pieces and used POR-15. I then top-coated everything with Krylon gloss.

 

Stingray- What is PRO-15 and where is it sold?-TK

 

POR15 is this rock hard paint that last forever not sure where its sold tho

ZD

 

You can order online: http://www.por15.com

Another option would be Eastwood's Chassis Black. It's epoxy hardened and should last a good deal. I used it for some rear suspension parts (strut rod bracket, spring plate, etc.)--it's beautiful and tough, but a little glossier than it should be.
http://www.eastwoodco.com

-Pedro

 

Like BSeery said ,you can remove the upper without compressing the spring. Just put the jackstands under the shock part of the lower controll arms. Keep the full weight of the car down on them. The weight of the car will hold the springs and lower arms in place. No need for any jacking once the car is loaded on the stands.

 

For paint either POR-15, GM Chassis Black, Eastwood's or Krylon. All look great when done.

 

TJKirby:
You probably already know this if it's not your 1st front end rebuild but just in case...

I did my 1st front rebuild on my '73 and experienced the following problems

1. A few weeks after the rebuild I was driving in my neighborhood and noticed the handling seemed REALLY strange. I took it home and crawled underneath to discover the back hinge bolt on the lower left A-arm where it attaches to the frame had backed out and been lost, along with the new polygraphite bushing from PST, on the road somewhere. Bummer! I put a bit of medium grade lock tight on it the second time. Be sure to check the torque twice and it's my opinion to use some locktite. Had to tear the whole left side back off to replace it.

2. I noticed after a month or two that my rubber grease cup on the lower left ball joint had a tear in it and would obviously not hold grease. I thought the local lube shop had blown it up with one of their air powered grease guns (or whatever they use). What happened was when I was reassembling the joint I pinched the rubber cup just slightly so that when I turned the wheel it stretched (twisted) the boot. After a few turns it ripped in half. So, be sure you check for a binding condition on all the boots by swinging the spindle back and forth by hand after you get the joints back together and tight. It is a MUCH more convienient time to correct the problem. ;)

good luck

dr