Or maybe the distributor and holddown clamp.
No spark make me grumpy
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 2
From: Sherwood Park AB
No spark make me grumpy
400 block with HEI ignition.
I have replaced the ignition coil, ignition module, pick up coil, module to cap wires... all in the attempt to find out why I am not getting spark. The cap and rotor have less than 150 miles on them and do not show any damage. I have 12 V to the coil. Still no spark. I have tried with a timing light and with a spark tester hooked between the #1 plug and wire.
Since it last ran, I pulled the engine, replaced the cam, and painted the block. The rotor is spinning.
This is driving me nuts! Any ideas would be helpful!
I have replaced the ignition coil, ignition module, pick up coil, module to cap wires... all in the attempt to find out why I am not getting spark. The cap and rotor have less than 150 miles on them and do not show any damage. I have 12 V to the coil. Still no spark. I have tried with a timing light and with a spark tester hooked between the #1 plug and wire.
Since it last ran, I pulled the engine, replaced the cam, and painted the block. The rotor is spinning.
This is driving me nuts! Any ideas would be helpful!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
well if all that is working properly its either the triggering block device or the rotor to dist cap connection.....i'm not sure how you would isolate them for testing though
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 2
From: Sherwood Park AB
What is the triggering block device?
Could I test the rotor to carbon electrode connection by dabbing a little dielectric grease on the rotor, and install the cap. If it transfers to the carbon electrode, it should be alright?
Could I test the rotor to carbon electrode connection by dabbing a little dielectric grease on the rotor, and install the cap. If it transfers to the carbon electrode, it should be alright?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 243
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville TN
Recheck the ignition module, about 10 times at an auto parts store.
If it fails any of the 10 tests replace it. One test is not enough.
If it's good and the coil is good, you have a broken wire in the distributor, or a bad rotor button.??? or missing Ground.
Good luck. Electrical problems are not fun to track down.
If it fails any of the 10 tests replace it. One test is not enough.
If it's good and the coil is good, you have a broken wire in the distributor, or a bad rotor button.??? or missing Ground.
Good luck. Electrical problems are not fun to track down.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 2
From: Sherwood Park AB
Originally Posted by BigBlockk
Painted the engine huh? Did you paint over where the ground bolts to the engine block?
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
I just clamped a test light to the distributor body, and the probe into the 12V HEI batt terminal, and it lit up. I also tried a jumper wire from the dist to a known ground, no spark.
I didn't paint the intake or the dist hold downs, but maybe the spark plugs aren't grounding to the block? I will check that.
I clamped the test lead to the spark plug (on the wrenching surface), and probe to the same 12V, and the test light lit up.
Anything else?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 2
From: Sherwood Park AB
I appreciate the replies and ideas, thanks.
The module is new. I had my old module tested, it was NFG so I bought a new one at NAPA. I didn't have the new one tested. Have to wait until Tuesday to do that.
All wires in the distributor are new, from the pick up coil to the module, from the module to the cap. The rotor button is from the MSD coil (identical to the old one), and both grounds on the coil are hooked up, and the ground on the capacitor.
Originally Posted by 78whtshark
Recheck the ignition module, about 10 times at an auto parts store.
If it fails any of the 10 tests replace it. One test is not enough.
If it's good and the coil is good, you have a broken wire in the distributor, or a bad rotor button.??? or missing Ground.
Good luck. Electrical problems are not fun to track down.
If it fails any of the 10 tests replace it. One test is not enough.
If it's good and the coil is good, you have a broken wire in the distributor, or a bad rotor button.??? or missing Ground.
Good luck. Electrical problems are not fun to track down.
All wires in the distributor are new, from the pick up coil to the module, from the module to the cap. The rotor button is from the MSD coil (identical to the old one), and both grounds on the coil are hooked up, and the ground on the capacitor.
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