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Spal PWM purple wire hook up

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Old May 21, 2006 | 12:59 PM
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Default Spal PWM orange wire hook up

I'm running dual fans with the Spal PWM controller and relay. I was wondering where the best place is for the orange ignition wires to tap in too? Thanks

Last edited by 77 vette; May 22, 2006 at 07:57 PM.
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Old May 21, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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Old May 21, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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Check your fuse block closely, mine has a lug marked, of all things...IGN.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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Initially I ran my orange wires (I had 2 since I'm using the secondary relay too) to the coil since it's ignition switched. It seemed to work, but later I realized that it's not a full 12 volts, but maybe closer to 7 volts.

I ended up running the wires through the firewall (along side my fiber optic lines) to the IGN blade on the fuse block. It's full a 12 volts and it works well.

Good luck...
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Old May 22, 2006 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by yellow 72
Check your fuse block closely, mine has a lug marked, of all things...IGN.
That's where I tapped for power to the Spal Controller and Pertronix Ignition module.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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Wired mine to the starter with a temperature control relay. Also wired the second fian to the A/C connector so that if I need additional cooling I can just slide the switch to A/C and the 2nd fan comes on (AC is long gone).

As mentioned above, make sure you pick a source where you get a clean 12 Volts. If you wire off of accesories like the blower, you may get voltage drops and less ummph to the fans.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
Wired mine to the starter with a temperature control relay. Also wired the second fian to the A/C connector so that if I need additional cooling I can just slide the switch to A/C and the 2nd fan comes on (AC is long gone).

As mentioned above, make sure you pick a source where you get a clean 12 Volts. If you wire off of accesories like the blower, you may get voltage drops and less ummph to the fans.

I don't believe the question related to the SUPPLY voltage (which can be sourced from the Starter as you have done or the Junction Block) - it was about the CONTROL voltage, which should be switched (i.e. the IGN terminal).
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Old May 22, 2006 | 12:53 PM
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Thought getting 12volts to the orange wire was the objective. I switched mine with the AC switch to the compressor lead.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 05:59 PM
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I would like to keep it under the hood If I can. How about the "S" terminal off the starter? I don't have A/C. I think I'll need a fuse to do this.

Last edited by 77 vette; May 22, 2006 at 07:52 PM.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 11:33 AM
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Did your 77 have A/C? If so the wiring is probably tucked out of the way...there are two wires on the harnes...can't remember whick color (think it was green) to use.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
Did your 77 have A/C? If so the wiring is probably tucked out of the way...there are two wires on the harnes...can't remember whick color (think it was green) to use.
No a/c that is why I would like to use the "S" post off the starter. Can I do this?
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Old May 24, 2006 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 77 vette
No a/c that is why I would like to use the "S" post off the starter. Can I do this?
No, that's not a good place. Of the two small terminals on the starter solenoid, one only has voltage when you have the ignition key in the Start position, and the other ONLY has power WHILE THE STARTER IS ENGAGED. That's it.

The IGN terminal is you best choice. You can "hide" the wire in and under the looms.
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Old May 24, 2006 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by pws69
No, that's not a good place. Of the two small terminals on the starter solenoid, one only has voltage when you have the ignition key in the Start position, and the other ONLY has power WHILE THE STARTER IS ENGAGED. That's it.

The IGN terminal is you best choice. You can "hide" the wire in and under the looms.
I thought the coil taps off this post? Oh well looks like I'll run a new wire through the fire wall. Thanks.
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Old May 24, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 77 vette
I thought the coil taps off this post? Oh well looks like I'll run a new wire through the fire wall. Thanks.
Yes, in a stock configuration, one of the wires DOES go to the + side of the coil - this provides the full 12V to BYPASS the BALLAST RESISTOR during Engine startup. That's why I stated that there is ONLY 12V there when the starter is actually engaged. The other small gauge connection to the Starter [solenoid] is the wire from the START lug of the ignition switch.
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