Hub-Centric Wheel Adapters vs Stud Length
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Hub-Centric Wheel Adapters vs Stud Length
Lads and Lassies,
I'm thinking of buying these adapters:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...spagenameZWDVW
Previous posts shine favorably on the vendor and the quality. My main concern is the comment from the vendor that the stud length should be at least 1.25". The 7/16" studs on my ' 79 L-82 are just a smidge over an inch when measuring flush from the face of the spindle. Does 1.25" mean the threaded shaft or the entire length of the uninstalled stud? Any reason why an open top acorn lug nut would not be able to hold these adapters securely to the spindle face? Considering the hub-centricity, seems like it would have plenty of holding power. I'm strictly a cruiser for now, and don't have huge stud snapping performance.
These are the wheels I have, Part 2039-5708; 255-60 TA's on the rear, 225-70's going on the front.
http://www.eaglewheels.com/203.htm
Thanks loads,
S
I'm thinking of buying these adapters:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...spagenameZWDVW
Previous posts shine favorably on the vendor and the quality. My main concern is the comment from the vendor that the stud length should be at least 1.25". The 7/16" studs on my ' 79 L-82 are just a smidge over an inch when measuring flush from the face of the spindle. Does 1.25" mean the threaded shaft or the entire length of the uninstalled stud? Any reason why an open top acorn lug nut would not be able to hold these adapters securely to the spindle face? Considering the hub-centricity, seems like it would have plenty of holding power. I'm strictly a cruiser for now, and don't have huge stud snapping performance.
These are the wheels I have, Part 2039-5708; 255-60 TA's on the rear, 225-70's going on the front.
http://www.eaglewheels.com/203.htm
Thanks loads,
S
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
I bought adapters from this Ebay store, the adapters are hubcentric as advertized and I also measured parallelism and checked runout with dial indicators... no complaints here 
These adapters can be mounted with the stock 7/16" studs, no problem whatsover. BUT... I'd upgrade to ARP studs just for piece of mind. These 20-30 years old studs may not be in perfect shape anymore. I installed metric studs from ARP (M12x1.5, .485" knurl) - M12 is a little larger than 7/16" and slighly smaller than 1/2" and you won't have a problem finding lug nuts at the local store (AdvancedAuto, M12x1.5 lug nuts with conical seat, $0.89 each)
These adapters can be mounted with the stock 7/16" studs, no problem whatsover. BUT... I'd upgrade to ARP studs just for piece of mind. These 20-30 years old studs may not be in perfect shape anymore. I installed metric studs from ARP (M12x1.5, .485" knurl) - M12 is a little larger than 7/16" and slighly smaller than 1/2" and you won't have a problem finding lug nuts at the local store (AdvancedAuto, M12x1.5 lug nuts with conical seat, $0.89 each)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Just found one of my old photos:
Make sure that the wheel stud is not sticking out, I ground mine down (.010") so they're below the mounting surface. Some rims have a smooth mounting surface (no holes between the 5 holes for the studs).
The photo is almost two years old, since then I installed the new ARP studs. There was nothing wrong with the stock studs, I just did it for the 'warm and fuzzy' feeling.... just to be safe....
Make sure that the wheel stud is not sticking out, I ground mine down (.010") so they're below the mounting surface. Some rims have a smooth mounting surface (no holes between the 5 holes for the studs).
The photo is almost two years old, since then I installed the new ARP studs. There was nothing wrong with the stock studs, I just did it for the 'warm and fuzzy' feeling.... just to be safe....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
Make sure that the wheel stud is not sticking out, I ground mine down (.010") so they're below the mounting surface. Some rims have a smooth mounting surface (no holes between the 5 holes for the studs).
The photo is almost two years old, since then I installed the new ARP studs.
The photo is almost two years old, since then I installed the new ARP studs.
How hard is it to install new studs? I searched and found a lot of reference to doing it, but no clear guidance how. Do you have to disassemble the spindle from the TA or can it be done in place (ie rotate and
). Sounds like the way to go but I don't have time to get too deep...Thanks,
S
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
Just found one of my old photos:
Thanks again...great pix!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Wuttin
Hey RB79...did you add these just for stance or did you have clearance issue. The stock rims are 15 x 8, correct?
Thanks again...great pix!
Thanks again...great pix!
I installed 1" spacers to clear the spring and trailing arm with 275-60 tires. Since then I got 295-50 tires and I installed 2" spacers to see how it fits (or fills) the fenders with 2" flares. The 295 tires clear the TA and spring with a 1" spacer and don't stick out too far...
When I installed the M12x 1.5 ARP studs I used a 15/32" (11.9mm) for the .485" knurl (that.s 12.3mm so you get 0.4mm or .016" interference). The M12 thread is nominal 12mm outer diameter (when you measure it you'll see that it's about 11.9mm), it's a very tight fit if your drill size 11.9mm.
Pull the new stud in the knurl using washers and a nut
I only removed the wheels when I did mine
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