I am slowly gathering the parts I need to upgrade my electrical system so that relays will handle the workload of sending electrical current where it is needed instead of the switches in the dash. I'm looking at the safety issue here to minimize the risk of melting my car to the ground from overloading the dash circuitry. I currently have a single pole alternator which does furnish all the power I need for lights , rad. fans, AC and other accessories but I understand a three wire alt. is better. I have the relays, inline fuses and wiring but still need some other accessories before I start the job. Please feel free to comment on this upgrade with advice and/or criticizm so we can analyze this process. I hope this will be as much fun and worthwhile as my 5 speed install was!
Bernie

 

Upgrading is not a big deal, the Output wire is ok as is. You need to add the 2 other wires, 1 is the exciter for the field windings, also known as voltage sensor, it gets connected somewhere in the always hot part of the system, at the battery charge wire close to the battery would be my selection. the second goes thru a dash warning light and then to a switched 12v (ign) source.
MAD has a very good article on all this stuff, you will have to do a little calculation on the battery charge wire size. But you can do it.

 

Sixfooter,
Thanks for the input. I am contacting Mad tomorrow morning to order their buss bar and maybe their kit. I already have the relays and am looking for the plugs that attach to them if they are available. As usual, I am slow about doing any upgrade or change; but I do get them done and have fun in the process!
Bernie

 

there ya go, thats what we have these things for

 

Bernie,

Here are a few pictures of MAD products at work. Off the distribution block are the Dual Spals and Spal Controller.

http://www.speakeasy.org/~pws/Coolin...on%20Wired.JPG

http://www.speakeasy.org/~pws/Cooling/Junction.JPG

http://www.speakeasy.org/~pws/Coolin...ay%20Wired.jpg

 

Thanks for the pictures. Your installation looks very professional. Did you use the remote solenoid for the starter in MAD's kit? I have headlights, 2 twelve inch fans, and the AC that I want to put on relays. This modification should improve the reliability and safety of the electrical system tremendously; although for many years, I never had any problems with "The Prince of Darkness" (Lucas) electrical systems on the British sports cars I restored.
Bernie

 

No I didn't - and to tell you the truth (and I will probably get flamed here), I don't believe in them!

I played around with the concept back in the 70's. Just stuck a Ford starter solenoid in the circuit to try it out (that's all these "kits" are - a Ford Solenoid and some wire!!). Not that impressed - a solenoid to activate a solenoid???? Heat shield or a mini high-torque starter is the only real solution if you have the issue. IF you don't have the issue, save your money!

 

Thanks for the tip. I definately want to add the relays for the different items to make the system perform better.
Bernie

 

I got to agree with PWS. I would not do the solenoid conversion, no reason to.

 

hahha....above been MY opinion for decades now, anyone doing a Ford system solenoid on a GM starter had NO concept of what in hell the differances are/were.....

GENE

 

I'm not an electrical engineer so I can't comment on the solenoid but I have had all of you recommend the relays. I feel that the comments given are honest and come from experience and that is what I have to go with. Am looking forward to diving into this electrical modification; first, because I know very little about these systems, and more importantly, I want to because it will make me a better mechanic on my own car. I learned to fly because I was scared of flying, I rock climbed and repelled because of my fear of heights, the electrical progression is only natural.
Bernie

 

I was having problems with heat soak and it was very embarrassing when the car would not start. I went the ford solenoid route along with a heavy jumper bar for the stock solenoid.
NEVER never again did I ever suffer from heat soak. The problem with the stock starter is the wire to the stock solenoid when hot doesn't carrry enough power to move the solenoid so no start.
By shorting out the stock solenoid with either a really heavy wire or copper bar that I used it always gets enough juice to turn over. The Ford solenoid was $10 and totally solved my problems.
I am a fan of the solenoid and yes I do run a high torque mini starter

 

Guys for an upgraded relay setup the single pole alternater is fine.
In a stock setup a single pole alternator has a problem, it takes it's reference voltage off the back of the alternater. So if the alternater is set for 14 volts this is what the alternator regulates too. So we have a long power cable going to the fuse panel. There is a voltage drop getting there but hey the alternator sees 14 volts at it's end and is happy. With a 3 wire the reference voltage can be moved to under the dash so now the alternater sees is reference as something less then 14 volts so it ups it's output to say 15 so you have 14 under the dash.

Now we go to the modified setup. One wire and 14 volts behind the alternater. We also have a short heavy wire going directly to the lights and fans. Now under the dash doesn't have a heavy load so it might be 13-14 volts and it is happy. The lights are turned on , the relay closes and the lights are suddenly almost directly connected to the back of the alternater, not much drop over the short heavy line, the lights see the 14 volts the alternater is putting out, since the headlights take power, the fans really soak it up but the alternator sees this power surge directly at the output of itself and adjusts the voltage to maintain that level.

Bernie you can stick to the single pole alternater and go with the relays. I have a good voltmeter in the car referenced off the fuse panel. I use to watch the voltage drop in steps as the various accessories were turned on and even with a 150 amp output alternater I was down to as little as 12.5 volts with everything running. The alternater shop assured me with testing that the alternater was maintaining it's 14 volts even under all this load. The problem was I was drawing too much power too far away from the source.
I then went relays on everything and now the lowest I have ever seen it is 13.5 with everything turned on and the lights are much brighter.
Guys I tested this out for myself, I trust my volt gage since it was checked against a very expensive Fluke multimeter.
Stick to the single wire alternater and add the relays.
For guys not using the relays stick to the 3 wire alternaters and add an external reference voltage.

 

I ordered the kit from MAD with the solenoid included. I will install it and check the voltage to the different accessories. I will feel much better when all this is done because of all the stories I have heard about melted light switches. I got the MAD kit because I am not that experienced with electrical projects and it will make the process easier for me. Thanks to everyone for all the input. I will post pics of the layout when I get it installed!
Bernie