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trickflow kit gets dynoed see dynosheet

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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 08:25 PM
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Default trickflow kit gets dynoed see dynosheet

[IMG][/IMG] Trickflow kit installed on a 1980 L82 They advertised 350hp and 400ftlbs.Looks like thy are right on the mark
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Good Stuff! Nice Engine Capartment.

Yeah, Trick Flow makes some good stuff, I have a set of their 18* heads on a custom Digital (DFI) TPI 383 Stroker I built.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 09:29 PM
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Looks like good numbers to me. Should be pretty fun do drive.

I don't know what the Trick Flow kit consists of but with my Trick Flow heads and XE262 Comp Cam and Performer intake I was at 253RWHP and 300RWTQ. Sounds like I am in the same ball park as you.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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Their kit came with heads,gaskets,bolts,roller rockers,cam shaft,double roller timing chain set,and some other odds and ends all for $1549.Yes it is lots of fun!Sucks gas like crazy,that could also be that my foot is in it all the time!
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bozzman3
[IMG][/IMG] Trickflow kit installed on a 1980 L82 They advertised 350hp and 400ftlbs.Looks like thy are right on the mark
???????????????

What?

Not what I'm seeing...............
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
???????????????

What?

Not what I'm seeing...............
Those peak #'s are at the wheels, if this is an auto car then drive train loss can be about 25% so divide those numbers by .75 and you got 357 and 400
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Fevre
Those peak #'s are at the wheels, if this is an auto car then drive train loss can be about 25% so divide those numbers by .75 and you got 357 and 400
Correct! It is a auto.Lots of people say that our vettes loose even more than 25% because of the rear half shafts.It could be more like 30%.Any body have any suggestions for a torque converter?What stall speed?
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bozzman3
Correct! It is a auto.Lots of people say that our vettes loose even more than 25% because of the rear half shafts.It could be more like 30%.Any body have any suggestions for a torque converter?What stall speed?

Art Carr or Hughes 10", 3000 rpm stall. It will flash up to 3600-3800rpms which is right your peak tq comes on. Shift it at 5800-6000 rpms. That converter will keep the rpms above 4000rpms after each shift. Its gonna knock about 5 tenths off your 1/4 et. It will show less rwhp with the stall though. Gotta have one.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Art Carr or Hughes 10", 3000 rpm stall. It will flash up to 3600-3800rpms which is right your peak tq comes on. Shift it at 5800-6000 rpms. That converter will keep the rpms above 4000rpms after each shift. Its gonna knock about 5 tenths off your 1/4 et. It will show less rwhp with the stall though. Gotta have one.
What will the car be like pulling away from a light?What about on the highway?I am looking for some more low down punch,but dont want to effect driveability.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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What kit do you have? I've got the TFS-K314-350-400 and am very happy with it.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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The car will still accelerate and take off fine, it will just require a little more throttle and it will feel like the transmission is slipping more down low. Infact it actually is kinda slipping, thats the entire point of a stall speed converter. The taller the gearing(lower numerically) will make the converter even looser. Not sure what gearing you have but if its alteast a 3.36, it will work fine with a 2800-3000 converter. You will need an external tranny cooler to offset the additional heat but driveability and reliablity will be the same. It will definetly suck more gas though. LOL

You could probably go with a Hughes 12", 2500 converter, its very mild and when driving around normal you probably wouldn't notice much difference at all from the stock converter and it would give you a 1000-1500 rpms of flash which will help your launches. I tend to run 3k converters in most of my stuff because the lack of tq in most motors with a good cam, you gotta get em above 3500rpms as quick as possibly if you wanna run a good et.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 77 vette
What kit do you have? I've got the TFS-K314-350-400 and am very happy with it.
Yes that is the kit I purchased.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
The car will still accelerate and take off fine, it will just require a little more throttle and it will feel like the transmission is slipping more down low. Infact it actually is kinda slipping, thats the entire point of a stall speed converter. The taller the gearing(lower numerically) will make the converter even looser. Not sure what gearing you have but if its alteast a 3.36, it will work fine with a 2800-3000 converter. You will need an external tranny cooler to offset the additional heat but driveability and reliablity will be the same. It will definetly suck more gas though. LOL

You could probably go with a Hughes 12", 2500 converter, its very mild and when driving around normal you probably wouldn't notice much difference at all from the stock converter and it would give you a 1000-1500 rpms of flash which will help your launches. I tend to run 3k converters in most of my stuff because the lack of tq in most motors with a good cam, you gotta get em above 3500rpms as quick as possibly if you wanna run a good et.
Thanks for all the info! Would the 3k converter be more fun?I am running 3.08s
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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Someone set me straight,..I thought peak torque and peak HP are supposed to cross at 5200 RPM,..on the chart they're crossing at 4300.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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You are half-right. Not at the peaks, but they are supposed to cross at 5250.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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Hey that's pretty nice. Has anyone tried the BBC heads? I see they also have pistons. Any info on those? It might be a nice combo.

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To trickflow kit gets dynoed see dynosheet

Old Jun 6, 2006 | 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 73, Dark Blue 454
Someone set me straight,..I thought peak torque and peak HP are supposed to cross at 5200 RPM,..on the chart they're crossing at 4300.
The horsepower and torque scales are different. They would have crossed at 5250 if they were plotted on the same scale. If you look at the HP and torque values at 5250 RPM both HP and torque are about 268.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 06:46 AM
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The chart is kinda screwey to read since the calibration marks on each side don't line up and the "max torque" looks like it labels the torque curve but it's actually riding on the hp line. Still pretty nice power to the rear wheels, though. Anybody have an engine run on the dyno, then compare it to a rear wheel dyno? I'd be interested to see what kind of losses we'd find, particularly as compared to solid rear axle rides.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 07:21 AM
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A 3k stall will be a little loose with a 3.08 but very manageable. It will require more throttle to pull away from stop signs when driving normal in the city but its not like it doesn't move, you just have to give it more throttle. Make no mistake though, a loose converter will DEFINETLY affect your gas mileage, but it all depends on how you drive it. Its really a matter of what you are going to do with the car. I personally would go 3k but I always go a little more then what I need because if you change gears in the future, it will tighten it up, also the bigger stall will make it feel like you have more gear then a 3.08 because it allows the engine to "slip" into the higher rpms easier.

I would suggest either a 2500 or 3000 for you. If you drive it everyday, maybe stick with the 2500.
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