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I'm planning to buy a new starter for the car, and I've found a mini starter for $125 online that I'd like. The problem is, that I can't tell if I need this "R-terminal diode kit" that Jeg's is talking about. I'm leaning towards "YES", but I'd like a second opinion to verify...
I have a Mallory series 26 distributor (dual points) and an MSD coil.
Thanks for any help!
Here's the description from the website:
In vehicles originally equipped with a breaker point ignition, the wiring harnesses 'R' circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is ''no connection'' when the starter is at rest and is + 12VDC while cranking. This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (ie: HEI, MSD or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases this wire will be eliminated. However, cars equipped with a ballast resistor (ie: Breaker Point or Mallory Unilite) may need this harness. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an 'R' terminal signal.
Last edited by eddiemeddiem; Jun 4, 2006 at 01:27 PM.
sounds like you will need it from the description. But I have no idea what its for, unless its to block the pulse from the soleniod when you let off the key.
But I have no idea what its for, unless its to block the pulse from the soleniod when you let off the key.
Dont quote me on this but I "think" its to give the ignition full voltage while cranking as the coil doesnt need the full 13.8 volts after it's running.
Like I said , dont quote me on this but this scenario does ring a bell... sorry if I'm incorrect on this one.
*EDIT* I just spoke to a friend of mine and he assures me that the above is indeed true.
A diode is nothing more than a switch and I believe it takes the place of the ballast resistor.
Thats all the info I have....If its not a big $$$ item I would order it just to be safe.
replacement for the resistor huh? Interesting, wonder how they get the correct voltage drop? I really would have thought it was a protection device.
I dont know Sixfooter...But I do know that the voltage to the coil changes during cranking and running....what causes the change...I dont know so I was guessing the diode
And yes, diodes are usually protection devices
that Ido know. the run voltage comes from the resistor mounted up by the coil, it has switched 12v to one side and the coil + on the other so there is less than 12v applied to the coil. Start voltage comes from the R term on the solenoid, during cranking the R term supplies 12 v to the + side of the coil, its connected to the resistor and + on the coil, this bypasses the resistor and applies 12v directly to the coil.
Dont quote me on this but I "think" its to give the ignition full voltage while cranking as the coil doesnt need the full 13.8 volts after it's running.
Like I said , dont quote me on this but this scenario does ring a bell... sorry if I'm incorrect on this one.
*EDIT* I just spoke to a friend of mine and he assures me that the above is indeed true.
A diode is nothing more than a switch and I believe it takes the place of the ballast resistor.
Thats all the info I have....If its not a big $$$ item I would order it just to be safe.
Yes full voltage from term R with key in crank position.Release key to run position and the coil gets its feed (aprox. 8.5 volts)from the resistor "wire" in the harness(has insulation around it).The " diode" is a one way electric valve---current flows 1 way only it is not a resistor.Had a min.and called Jegs that kit is $19.99--Do what Bob said order it !!!!
Last edited by ...Roger...; Jun 6, 2006 at 12:31 PM.