What is a lock up converter feature? Please excuse my ignorance!! This is going to be a big learning experience! Wish me luck!

 

Can you tell me about the need for the lock converter?

 

I want to keep the carburetor. There is just a lot less to work with versus fuel injection with all the sensors and junk. No doubt it runs better, but don't want that issue. Want to be able to work on it myself without having to take it somewhere and hooking it up to a computer. Do you know why the previous owner changed out the 3-spd for the 4-spd?

 

CA, it's no good trying to clean up the wires with a mild solvent because they then all turn grey
Those intermittant controllers are hard to find, but try finding the rear defog switch for an '81!!!!

 

First let me say I wasn't the one that removed the 'puter from my '81. I just had to clean up the mess.......When I got mine the air pump was gone, the smog capped, and a mess of tangled wires remained, along with the original distrib. The carb had been changed out to a truck carb and was not original.

Things I learned while cleaning up the mess:

1. You MUST change out the distrib. and the carb if unhooking the 'puter, and they are ORIGINAL.

2. I would leave the 'puter, and wiring for future if you sell. Just neatly tie up the excess wires to your firewall, as I have.

3. If you have no emission restrictions, cut the old cats off, and go with true dual exhaust.

4. Add some headers!!

5. Put on a new and better flowing intake manifold like a Edelbrock performer.

Now the above would be a minimum to see any improvements. You will probably realize at least 50 hp gain from the above.

If you want to take to the next level, then change the cam, and heads!


Torque convertor lockup is very important if you do alot of highway driving at continous speeds in excess of 65mph. If not, don't worry about it when you go computerless.........

Listen to UKPaul when it comes to the overdrive stuff...he knows what he's talkin' about. He can also tell you how to make it run good with the 'puter, but you will be limited as to the mods you make.

Good Luck.........and their plenty of us with '81's that can help.

Brian

 

I'll replace all the wires that are worn

 

You guys are so awesome with all your help!!!!

Just to share a little info. Here is what I have done so far: removed smog crap, removed air cleaner, carburetor,intake manifold, and all the connecting wires and hoses, and complete exhaust system.

I have already purhcased hedman headers and plan on putting true dual stainless steel exhaust with no cats. I want a nice rumble so I will probably put on low restriction mufflers with a nice deep tone. Haven't decided yet on brand, open to suggestions

I am going to install Edelbrock performer intake manifold and carburetor unless I am able to upgrade to the thunder series, this will depend on the hood clearance because I am not going to change out the hood.

Then I definately plan on installing aluminum heads, roller cam and lifters, and also the rocker arms and pushrods obviously. Haven't decided on what brand of cam, was thinking about Comp Cams. My issue is I don't want to really get into the transmission to install a different stall converter so I am unsure how serious of a cam I can install.

Am I missing anything??

 

Nope.....other when you get done, you will want more.........and more......

I was told this, and just put in a new 357 crate motor, and it's still not enough........

 

I am trying to understand the whole lock converter part of the transmission. Do you understand it?

 

The converter lock is quite simple in principle. When a converter is transmitting power from the engine (this is going to be a very basic description!) it will always have some slip. I view it as 2 fans pushed up close to each other with the engine driving one & the other driving the trans/wheels. The engine driven one spins/throws fluid at the other & this spinning fluid turns it (said this would be simple!). The driven fan will never match the speed of the driving fan. What a locking converter does is to effectively lock the 2 fans together so that there's no slip. It does this with a clutch plate that's forced against something under fluid pressure when lockup is required (there's a solenoid in the trans that, when it gets current pushed through it, opens (or closes?) & directs fluid down a channel . I think this fluid then opens a valve(?) which allows high pressure fluid to operate the clutch in the same way that a spring does it in a normal clutch). No, I don't understand how it all works in detail! They're worth having. Mine failed & the extra rpms caused by it really made a difference in fuel economy.
True duals made the biggest single power improvement on mine. As for mufflers I wouldn't advise the Monza glasspack type (the ones you can see through with twin tips). At WOT they are stupidly loud.
Once you've got true duals on there you'll eventually feel that the engine is strangled at the top end of the rev range. This is due to the restrictive stock manifolds (a 2" restriction on '81s) & probably the smog heads. Fitting Headers (1 5/8" primaries into a 3" collector & then reducer to 2 1/2") will make it breath a lot easier at the top end. I don't know what decent heads will do yet as I can't afford any. I bought Dynomax ceramic coated Headers & am impressed. They still look good 3 or 4 year later, they fitted on with no problems (though I took the A/C off so don't know what they're like with the compresser on there) and, contrary to what I expected, they (combined with stainless duals) reduced cabin temps. Price was also good. There's also a nicer sound under the hood
Swapping out a converter isn't a difficult job. I wasn't looking forwards to removing my stock trans & converter, but it's really simple. I reckon changing the intake manifold was more tricky/fiddly! Stock is apparently an 1800 stall & I've fitted a 2200 stall. There's better off the line performance but I've noticed no difference in normal street driving ie. it doesn't need more revs/throttle to get moving in stop/start traffic. The only time I've noticed a difference was when pulling away on a steep hill covered in deep sand. The revs climbed to more than normal & it didn't move. That was a bit freaky as I'd recently fitted a new OD trans & briefly thought it had broke. A dead Vette in the parking lot at the Goodwood festival of speed would have been really embarassing for Vette owners everywhere (specially with all the Porsche & TVR owners around it!). A few more revs got it moving (& sand-blasted an audience ) & that was the only time it's felt any different in normal use.
The Performer manifold seems to be fine for hood clearance (as long as the new carb isn't much taller than the stock Q-jet. From what I understand, the air gaps & taller manifolds cause hood clearance problems & you've then got to stat messing with drop base air cleaners, etc.
One thing I did, which might be worth considering, is to keep the stock cold air intake system. I ride a m/cycle & can feel a real difference in power between a cool evening & the heat of the mid-afternoon, so figure that ducting cold air into the filter, instead of hot air from the engine bay, can only be a good thing.
Brian's right, once you start modifying these things & start to wake them up, it gets addictive