wheel and interior detailing + other stuff
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: parkland fl
wheel and interior detailing + other stuff
take a look at the link I made and let me know if you can help with any of this stuff
http://www.geocities.com/c5vette126/problems.html
[Modified by c5vette98, 12:52 AM 8/28/2001]
http://www.geocities.com/c5vette126/problems.html
[Modified by c5vette98, 12:52 AM 8/28/2001]
Racer
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: Cortland, NY, USA
Re: wheel and interior detailing + other stuff (c5vette98)
1. The wheels may need the clear coat stripped off and then re-polished. If it is a 79, the wheels are brushed aluminum vs the shiney aluminum of later years.
2. They sell leather dye through supply shops if the stains can't come out. That may be worth a try.
3. I'm not sure what the picture is showing here. If it is cracked, it should be a relatively easy fix for someone familiar with fiberglass repair.
4. Trim paint - available at all the large retail places like Eckler's and Mid-America.
5. I really can't tell what the spots are but if it is "fish eye" it's usually caused by traces of silicone on the body when it was painted. I am not sure of the fix short of sanding and repainting.
I am NO EXPERT but I hope I helped a bit. There is certainly someone with more experience than me out there that could also help.
Good luck,
LMJ
[Modified by L. Jackmin, 8:37 PM 8/27/2001]
[Modified by L. Jackmin, 9:01 PM 8/27/2001]
2. They sell leather dye through supply shops if the stains can't come out. That may be worth a try.
3. I'm not sure what the picture is showing here. If it is cracked, it should be a relatively easy fix for someone familiar with fiberglass repair.
4. Trim paint - available at all the large retail places like Eckler's and Mid-America.
5. I really can't tell what the spots are but if it is "fish eye" it's usually caused by traces of silicone on the body when it was painted. I am not sure of the fix short of sanding and repainting.
I am NO EXPERT but I hope I helped a bit. There is certainly someone with more experience than me out there that could also help.
Good luck,
LMJ
[Modified by L. Jackmin, 8:37 PM 8/27/2001]
[Modified by L. Jackmin, 9:01 PM 8/27/2001]
Drifting
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 1
From: Kirkland WA
Re: wheel and interior detailing + other stuff (c5vette98)
I can help with the wheels. Mine looked just like that -- see the pictures now at my website: http://www.albertpenello.com/vette -- they are all nice and shiny now!
- No 7 polishing compound (it's a bit coarse) -- it comes in the green can
- 0000 steel wool
- A dremel or drill with a polishing wheel (I used a dremel and one of those black and decker "mouse" sanders with a polisher)
- Can of Krylon semi-flat black paint (for the center area and for the inner holes)
- Paint thinner
- Mothers aluminum/chrome polish
Basically -- all it takes is some serious elbow grease but you can get that old paint off. Use a good cleaner/degreaser like Gunk to get all the grease off the wheels. Front and back! Use the paint thinner to strip off as much of that old paint as possible. Then use the #7 compoud and the 0000 steel wool to strip off the remainder of the old paint and really polish it. Forget about the areas in the spokes -- you'll never polish them by hand. It's going to take a LOT of time -- took me several hours per wheel. Just buff the hell out of them until the paint comes off. If you have a dremel with a polisher or some sort of drill with a polishing end it will help. When they are all shiny, clean them really good again and use the black paint to repaint the center section and paint the inside of the spokes (tape off the front and spray paint from the back, then use some of the paint thinner on a damp cloth the clean the wheel surface. If you're REALLY ambitious, you can polish the back, too, but that will take a TON of time. I didn't worry about the back!
When it's all done and dry, take your time with the mothers polish and really go over the wheel for a nice finish. Expect it to take 3-4 hours per wheel. I did one a night for a week and they came out great. They don't even look like the same wheel!
- No 7 polishing compound (it's a bit coarse) -- it comes in the green can
- 0000 steel wool
- A dremel or drill with a polishing wheel (I used a dremel and one of those black and decker "mouse" sanders with a polisher)
- Can of Krylon semi-flat black paint (for the center area and for the inner holes)
- Paint thinner
- Mothers aluminum/chrome polish
Basically -- all it takes is some serious elbow grease but you can get that old paint off. Use a good cleaner/degreaser like Gunk to get all the grease off the wheels. Front and back! Use the paint thinner to strip off as much of that old paint as possible. Then use the #7 compoud and the 0000 steel wool to strip off the remainder of the old paint and really polish it. Forget about the areas in the spokes -- you'll never polish them by hand. It's going to take a LOT of time -- took me several hours per wheel. Just buff the hell out of them until the paint comes off. If you have a dremel with a polisher or some sort of drill with a polishing end it will help. When they are all shiny, clean them really good again and use the black paint to repaint the center section and paint the inside of the spokes (tape off the front and spray paint from the back, then use some of the paint thinner on a damp cloth the clean the wheel surface. If you're REALLY ambitious, you can polish the back, too, but that will take a TON of time. I didn't worry about the back!
When it's all done and dry, take your time with the mothers polish and really go over the wheel for a nice finish. Expect it to take 3-4 hours per wheel. I did one a night for a week and they came out great. They don't even look like the same wheel!
