Lower ball joint install problems
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Lower ball joint install problems
I have bought and installed 2 new lower ball joints. I have also replaced the steering knuckle/spindles on both sides because the previous ball joints had worn the holes in the knuckles very large.
I have been told that the castle nuts have to be tightened as tight as you can, I have done that, but after they get so tight, the nut stops turning on the ball joint shaft, and the whole ball joint is turning inside itself as well as inside the steering knuckle holes. A few mechanics told me that this is definitely bad since the taper is supposed to get extremely strong and tight when the nut pulls the ball joint and knuckle together.
I am confused at the situation and I don't know what to do next. Has anyone seen this before? Should I try it again with a washer between the castle nut and the knuckle in order to force it higher in the taper?
Should I grind the top of the knuckle so it goes higher towards the thick part of the ball joint taper?
Thanks
I have been told that the castle nuts have to be tightened as tight as you can, I have done that, but after they get so tight, the nut stops turning on the ball joint shaft, and the whole ball joint is turning inside itself as well as inside the steering knuckle holes. A few mechanics told me that this is definitely bad since the taper is supposed to get extremely strong and tight when the nut pulls the ball joint and knuckle together.
I am confused at the situation and I don't know what to do next. Has anyone seen this before? Should I try it again with a washer between the castle nut and the knuckle in order to force it higher in the taper?
Should I grind the top of the knuckle so it goes higher towards the thick part of the ball joint taper?
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 48
From: westland mi
as tight as u can? who told u that?. u torque em down to either 45 or 60, just did it & can't remember, and if the cotter pin doesn't align then tighten it a lil more till it aligns. i think the lower is 60 and the upper is 45
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
Originally Posted by rosslato
as tight as u can? who told u that?. u torque em down to either 45 or 60, just did it & can't remember, and if the cotter pin doesn't align then tighten it a lil more till it aligns. i think the lower is 60 and the upper is 45
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: Warrensburg MO
The ball joint nut should tighten up, because the shaft is tapered, and gets larger at the bottom. You might try tapping on the bottom side of the balljoint and see if the knuckle will grab the taper; or you might key it, drive it down the road, and then recheck it.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Thanks for the replies. I wasn't trying to be technical about how tight to screw the nut in, I was concerned about the taper not being tight inside the spindle and ruining both the spindle and ball joints.
Today's not raining so I'll try to get the taper in better and see what will happen. If the nut is bottomed out, I'll try to put a washer in between.
Thanks
Today's not raining so I'll try to get the taper in better and see what will happen. If the nut is bottomed out, I'll try to put a washer in between.
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
I don't see how your previous ball joints could waller out the holes in your steering knuckle, but if they do I don't think there's any other fix besides buying a new knuckle. If the nut is bottoming out before it gets tight that means the hole is too large and the taper isn't snugging up correctly in the knuckle hole. I just got through redoing the front suspension on my 78 and if I recall the bottom torque specification is 70+ to get the pin in and the top is 45+.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
Originally Posted by blctalon
I don't see how your previous ball joints could waller out the holes in your steering knuckle, but if they do I don't think there's any other fix besides buying a new knuckle. If the nut is bottoming out before it gets tight that means the hole is too large and the taper isn't snugging up correctly in the knuckle hole. I just got through redoing the front suspension on my 78 and if I recall the bottom torque specification is 70+ to get the pin in and the top is 45+.
worn steering parts can kill you
