Radiator drain fell out - Pics
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 26,545
Likes: 46
From: Huntersville NC
Just out of curiosity, I googled this which should give you some hope! 
But maybe wait til you hear from someone that has had some actual experience with a corvette rad...
http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_auto_co...271299,00.html
You can get a lot of info if you google "radiator petcock"
Nice that the forum censor now lets us use the proper word instead of changing it to, "pet****"
But maybe wait til you hear from someone that has had some actual experience with a corvette rad...
One fairly common problem is a leaky petcock -- the small valve at the rear and base of the radiator (figure A) that allows the coolant to be drained when it's time for a change. If you've identified a leaky petcock, the repair is fairly easy to do yourself.
You can get a lot of info if you google "radiator petcock"
Nice that the forum censor now lets us use the proper word instead of changing it to, "pet****"
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Originally Posted by yellow71
Drained my radiator and the whole plug fell out. Does it have to be welded back in (I can't weld) or can I use JB Weld or something similar?
Thanks
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
You could always TRY JB Weld, Just clean it out good w/ alcohol and glue it bck in there. At best it would be a temporary fix (I can't think of anything that you could fix PERMANENTLY with JB Weld) though so you'll eventually have to pull the rad and have it re-soldered. That's not so bad though 'cuz pulling a C3 radiator is a far bigger PITA than soldering a little bung....
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 124
Likes: 1
Bought a tap yesterday and tapped the hole in the bottom of the radiator (removed the front bumper crosspiece first for access) and threaded in the new draincock. It is in there quite snuggly but without sealant.
The guy at the parts store suggested teflon tape but that does not seem permanant enough for a pressurized system. Can I use some type of high temp ATV (like the kind we use on intake manifold bolts), or
JB Weld or fuel tank sealant or something else to seal the threads?
I do have excellent access to the area now that the crosspiece is out so I might be able to solder with the radiator in place if that is necessary.
Thanks
The guy at the parts store suggested teflon tape but that does not seem permanant enough for a pressurized system. Can I use some type of high temp ATV (like the kind we use on intake manifold bolts), or
JB Weld or fuel tank sealant or something else to seal the threads?
I do have excellent access to the area now that the crosspiece is out so I might be able to solder with the radiator in place if that is necessary.
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Originally Posted by yellow71
Bought a tap yesterday and tapped the hole in the bottom of the radiator (removed the front bumper crosspiece first for access) and threaded in the new draincock. It is in there quite snuggly but without sealant.
The guy at the parts store suggested teflon tape but that does not seem permanant enough for a pressurized system. Can I use some type of high temp ATV (like the kind we use on intake manifold bolts), or
JB Weld or fuel tank sealant or something else to seal the threads?
I do have excellent access to the area now that the crosspiece is out so I might be able to solder with the radiator in place if that is necessary.
Thanks
The guy at the parts store suggested teflon tape but that does not seem permanant enough for a pressurized system. Can I use some type of high temp ATV (like the kind we use on intake manifold bolts), or
JB Weld or fuel tank sealant or something else to seal the threads?
I do have excellent access to the area now that the crosspiece is out so I might be able to solder with the radiator in place if that is necessary.
Thanks
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
If its in there tight I would use the teflon tape
Drive it, get it hot (turn on the A/C if equipped and dog it up up some big hills) and check for leaks...
Keep an eye on the temp gauge and bring a few gallons of water with you... It might be fine.
Worth a shot, just dont cook the engine.
ps: you dont need a petcock to drain the coolant in the future... you can always yank the bottom hose so that shouldnt be an issue
Drive it, get it hot (turn on the A/C if equipped and dog it up up some big hills) and check for leaks...
Keep an eye on the temp gauge and bring a few gallons of water with you... It might be fine.
Worth a shot, just dont cook the engine.
ps: you dont need a petcock to drain the coolant in the future... you can always yank the bottom hose so that shouldnt be an issue
Last edited by Bob Onit; Jun 24, 2006 at 08:29 AM.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 627
Likes: 5
From: Frisco TX
The exact same thing happened to me a month ago. I tried the JB Weld and it held for a while. Then I went to unscrew the plug for the first time and it broke off. I wanted to tap it and put a new drain plug in but never could fine one that would fit the hole. All too small. Ended up taking the radiator out to take to a radiator shop to weld that little piece on. After I took out the radiator, I cleaned the fins the best I could. Still tons of crap left in there. I made the decision that since it was most likely the original radiator, it was probably due for a new one anyway. Ordered one from ecklers for $300. Car runs cooler now. However, that installation job was the biggest pita job I've ever undertaken. Looks like a relatively easy job but guess it wasn't for me. Good thing you didn't have to take the radiator out to fix.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by mdj21
you would do better to get some solder and a propane torch and do a proper job of it.
you may not need to remove the radiator to do it. the solder should wick up into the joint.
good luck,
Mike.
you may not need to remove the radiator to do it. the solder should wick up into the joint.
good luck,
Mike.
Flush the bottom with water and get both parts very clean-tin both parts
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by mdj21
you may not need to remove the radiator to do it.
Last edited by Bob Onit; Jun 25, 2006 at 07:17 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
If thats the case I would CERTAINLY replace it with a brand new quality radiator.
Sounds like you're short-cutting, and you may pay dearly for it in the future...for the relatively cheap price of a new rad, you'll kill numerous birds with one stone...IMO
