When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm at the end of my differential rebuild and the side yoke retainer clip is going in really tight. Everything is new except the housing and carrier itself. I had to compress the side gear and clutch pack to get the C-clip on. :smash: Is it supposed to be that tight?? :confused:
Lou,
I had no problem getting mine on. Just poked it in there with some snapring pliers, slipped over the end of the shaft and over the groove. Then released the pliers. It popped right into the groove and that was that. I can't really understand the nature of your problem, I had plenty of room to position the ring and slip it over the shaft.
Re: Side yoke C-clips going really tight?? (Smokehouse69)
My yokes and cross shaft are new and the nose of the yoke hits the cross shaft before the entire groove for the clip come through the side gear. Only half of the groove is making throught the side gear. I had to compress the clutch pack which moved the side gear back enough to put the clip on. Hope this helps. lou
Did you check for endplay? I don't remember the figures offhand but it should be at least 3-4 thousands. When I installed my new 12 bolt pinion shaft (my original had elongated the posi carrier hole so I rebored it for the larger 12 bolt pinion shaft) I had to grind the ends of the side yolks to get the recommended clearances. Tom's differentials do it as well. I built a fixture to hold the shaft square against a bench type disc grinder (basically drilled a square 2 by 4 the same size as the yolk and ground off a bit at a time to get the right clearance (being careful to not overheat the yolk).
Re: Side yoke C-clips going really tight?? (74vetteman)
These are reconditioned yokes. They have the the tool steel inserts pressed into the tip. So is it safe to say that I bought new yokes just to grind the tip off anyway. Hmmm. Do you think I can grind "tool steel?" What did you use to keep it from getting to hot? Can you use water? :confused: lou
My yoke's and center shaft came from bair,s up in PA. Thay were a tight fit .I would'nt grind on them till you talked to the vendor ,it will probably void your warrenty.just my .02.
Mine went in quite tight with almost 0 play but if only half the groove is showing I wouldn't want to grind that much. On a normal shaft I think the ends are only case hardened so any grinding quickly puts you through the hard layer. When I had mine out I have a rockwell tester and found the worn one to be soft on the end and the unworn one still 60 RC on the end. I only had to install one tool steel button. On shafts that are still hard on the end I have slightly elongated the slot carefull in the right direction and used 2 snap rings to take up clearance. This seems to have worked and over 12 years I have not had a problem. If the button is help in place with a center cap screw and you can remove this bolt the button could be placed on a surface grinder and a little removed but his could spoil the seating for the cap screw. Call the manufacturer and ask his advice.
Norval
Good luck
No i got the clips in .i pryed the spider gears outward .i also lightly drove the clips into the slot with a screw driver .also the snap ring that i got from Bair's only go on one way thay mark them with yellow paint ,i forgot if the yellow paint goes in or out .I did this last winter Ihope this will be of some help . :seeya :seeya
I would check for extra spacers in the clutch pack, or an extra disc, sounds like someone tighetned up on something, or maybe a spacer behind the outer bearing race...something not allowing the yoke to slide all the way home, or allowing the side gear too far toward the centerline...how does the cross shaft sit??? does the shaft clear the yoke tips???