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the cam flows well with the AFR195s.....to be honest, i'd actually get the recommended springs, they aren't that much more $ and its just an added insurance. I don't know about running .547 lift on a spring rated .550 max...not enough safety cushion there?
the cam flows well with the AFR195s.....to be honest, i'd actually get the recommended springs, they aren't that much more $ and its just an added insurance. I don't know about running .547 lift on a spring rated .550 max...not enough safety cushion there?
My AFR 190's springs are rated at 550 lift. Checked the specs. They would actualy bottom right at .600. The specs have a .050 safety margin between the rated lift and coil bind. Check your coil bind measurement if running this close.
You are forgetting it is a 406ci not a 350ci, all the theory in the world means nothing until you tryit in the real world. I have been driving around for 2 years with a 219cc race heads, a huge solid roller cam, a single plane intake, a big race carb and a 3.08 rear end. I tool around town in 4th @1500 RPM. I have over 450ft/lbs at 2000 RPM does that sound like it would have any trouble getting the car rolling ?
Just because a cam can rev to 7000RPM doesn't mean you are going to be driving around in the 5000RPM range. Like I said above mine runs fine at 1500 RPM and I do most of my drving between 1500 - 2500 RPM but the potential to rev it to 6500 RPM and rip up the pavement is there all the time.
There are many misconceptions here in this thread and on this forum about big inch small blocks. They are alot closer to big blocks than small block and behave that way.
Go with a bigger cam and don't worry about the bottom end, you will have so much torque from 406 that it doesn't matter what cam you put in there within reason. And in the future you won't have to change it when you can afford bigger heads, because believe me that it what you will eventually do
I went with the advice of cam tech's at first and have to agree with Motorhead.I started with a Comp XE-274 and now run an Isky Z-35 solid with 254@.050,and it's just about perfect,even with the Vic Jr.No lowend problem,and will rip to 7000 rpms at anytime. I found with only P295-50 tires I couldn't hook anyway,so this round I "over cammed/ and went single plane" just to bleed off some torque.
Well...now that you all beat hell out of me for using paultry 180cc heads, they are now up for sale. I like the flow #'s of the AFR 210's. Compared mid-flow #'s (which is the recomended way) to many others out there and these will fit my needs.
Thanks for the beating guys....I needed it for motivation.
Build it once....build it right...NO REGRETS!!!!!
Will post pics when they arrive.
Eddie
hows the streetability for you guys running these 250+ duration cams?? I know .i had a 246 flat tappet cam, and it was terrible on a 383.
I have a 237/242@.050 in my LS1 w/stock heads/motor. To be honest with you, its too much cam. It makes good HP up top but its a total dog down low. It did dyno 300 ft lbs at 3000rpms but...part throttle acceleration and tq below 3000rpms is pitiful, especially with the AC. Depending on what motor I do for the vette, I am not going with anything longer then that. Bigger motors can handle more duration but...point of diminishing returns...
I think I am staying in the 232/236 area. .550-.560 lift
Also once in my old pontiac, I had a 231/239 hyd in a 406" with lightly ported heads, the car ran 12.0s, 3.42s in the rear. I switched to a 255/263 solid, installed 3.90s and the car ran 12.50s. Now with some killer heads and steel rods, I might have made SOME use of that cam but... that was my first lesson in bigger isn't better. I was 22yrs old then.
I have a 237/242@.050 in my LS1 w/stock heads/motor. To be honest with you, its too much cam. It makes good HP up top but its a total dog down low. It did dyno 300 ft lbs at 3000rpms but...part throttle acceleration and tq below 3000rpms is pitiful, especially with the AC. Depending on what motor I do for the vette, I am not going with anything longer then that. Bigger motors can handle more duration but...point of diminishing returns...
I think I am staying in the 232/236 area. .550-.560 lift
With 10.2 to 1 compression and a 406 with 210 AFR heads he needs more duration. I would bet he will be doing a rear end with lower gears or a 5 speed after he drives it a while.
Also once in my old pontiac, I had a 231/239 hyd in a 406" with lightly ported heads, the car ran 12.0s, 3.42s in the rear. I switched to a 255/263 solid, installed 3.90s and the car ran 12.50s. Now with some killer heads and steel rods, I might have made SOME use of that cam but... that was my first lesson in bigger isn't better. I was 22yrs old then.
To much duration will bleed off some compression due to valve overlap reducing your dynamic compression ratio along with torque. Another reason for a little wider (112) LSA. Also a hydaulic roller can go with a bigger duration due to the fast ramp rates compared to non roller.
To much duration will bleed off some compression due to valve overlap reducing your dynamic compression ratio along with torque. Another reason for a little wider (112) LSA. Also a hydaulic roller can go with a bigger duration due to the fast ramp rates compared to non roller.
That cam I was talking about in m LS1 was on a 113LSA, 237/242@.050, .603/.608 lift. I believe it definetly bled off some compression. It is smooth down low, just requires much more throttle to achieve the same acceleration/speed in normal driving conditions. I think some milled/fully worked heads would wake up this turd up. It sittn at 400rwhp right now.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Eddie if you are getting the 210's it time to get serious and put some bad azz parts in there.
Look at my sig, nows the time my friend you won't regret it and you won't forget the the first time you mash the gas at 50MPH and break the tires loose. Take some TP with you
Glad to see EDZRED72 can afford to buy a gold plated toilet, I have
three here at the house, was thinking of sending him one of mine
and go get a regular stocker type toilet for one of the bathrooms.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jun 21, 2006 at 01:47 AM.
This "which cam should I pick" tread will always be subject to the taste of the builder. If you want a muscle car,shaking fenders and as Motorhead said,breaking the tires loose at 50mph,you pick a cam with mid to top end power.My 406 I just baught a vacuum guage to tune the carb with,showed 5" at idle.(Need lower value power valve for sure)My power brakes and headlights do not work well,and I've removed my power steering.(It leaked like a siv,and I was tired of rebuilding it)I have no AC,have changed the rear to 3.70's and to be honest,would do it again in a heartbeat. It feels like a muscle car should.Easily street driven,but oh so nasty when you want it to be.
The joy I get from this is I built it my way,no dealer option,numbers matching going on here at all.If you want milder combinations,with all the goodies still hooked up and working,that's OK too.....it's your choice.But the whole package has to match for the best performance.
Trust me, i believe in build it once, and build it right..it took me 2 383s to figure that out. What heads exactly are you going with now? 210s?? Are you going to stick with those junk KB hypers??
If you want milder combinations,with all the goodies still hooked up and working,that's OK too.....it's your choice.
Originally Posted by The Money Pit
But the whole package has to match for the best performance.
3.08 gear, 4 speed, want streetability = LOW END AND MIDRANGE Torque engine Split duration hydraulic roller cam with Wide LSA, not over .550 lift and less than 245 max duration @.50 JMHO Change the cam when you change rear end gears or install a 5 speed!