All of this talk of HP, ETs and MPH got me thinking... I have to buy EVERYTHING anyway for my hot small block build up, MAYBE, I should just build a big block. It seems you can get a lot more power out of a big block on a more mild/streetable build. If I were to do this, I know I need all of the brackets but will the factory AC compressor and hoses still fit from the small block? Also what about the factory fan and shroud from the small block? I need to start researching recipes for hot street big blocks. Maybe a big block will give me the hp and TQ I need to get down the strip but still be mild enough to drive all the time. I am thinking 496" forged, Edelbrock RPM heads and a decent sized hyd cam, maybe even a hyd roller. 550hp at the crank shouldn't be too hard right? What yall think about this idea? Any of you big block C3s, feel free to chime in.

 

ALSO, what about the small block's fire wall, with the stock small block AC system on the firewall(the evaporator box) clear the big block valve covers or does factory big block cars have different firewall fixings?

I would be interested in installing a BB as long as I don't have to make ANY changes to the car's factory stuff aside from maybe a fan change.

Even if I build a bad *** 383, I still have to buy headers and a L88 hood so...I might as well go big block. Its the PS/AC/Alt brackets I am worried about finding.

Are the motor mounts the same for a BB and SB?

 

You are thinking straight. A 496 can push 600 horse in street trim, idle good , not overheat and other then a crank it is a stright normal bigblock buiild up.
The firewall is absolutely NO problem, you can use the small block motor mounts and distributor, they are the same, even the starter will bolt up from the small block.
At first I used the long water pump and all pulleys and brackets from the donor car and other then needing an electric fan everything fit.
Over the years I went to the short pump and quickly fabricated the needed brackets.
I wouldn't consider and small block, well nothing under the 400 range. If I did go small block it would be the 400 block.

 

SO the ac box on the fire wall will clear the BB valve covers? Its pretty close on the small block motor. Can I still use the small block fan/shroud assy?

Any good links to builders for BBs? I Shafiroff is $$$. I even thought about the ZZ502, it has some nice hardware in it but....I don't think it would have enough beans up top to pull on the back half. Maybe with a cam upgrade or something. It already has 2.25" valves in the aluminum heads. Also looked at a WP 509", 540hp. That sucker is $9600 with aluminum heads. I would like to get out for $6k-7k if possible.

 

You sure you won't reconsider an LS1 conversion? no new hood required........

 

I have definetly thought about the LS1, I am pretty familiar with the LS1s and they make a TON of power. Not to mention you can get one cheap, stick a cam in it and make 400rwhp. They last forever, love nitrous and the bottom end will hold 650hp at the crank.

Also the hood will have plenty of clearance. I would love to do one with a 4l60e and a big ole stall. I KNOW the car would run 11s easy with that setup. I have several buddy's with TA and Z28s that run 11s with basically stock motors. I would think the conversion would be a nightmare though, plus the fuel injection wiring etc. It would be sweet.

I still kinda like the idea of a stock looking old vette though. Thats why I wanted to do a gen 1 383, I can make it look pretty stock and still have it run pretty well. Got lots of options. The bigblock would be a relatively easy conversion it seems but...its gonna throw off the whole "my car is all original" thing. LOL

 

no replacement for displacement go with the rat

 

I came to the same conclusion and built a 427 (now 435) for my 75. Since I wanted to keep the A/C and P/S, I decided on a march serpentine conversion with a sanden compressor and a sunbird type remote reservoir P/S pump. Definitely pricey, but it was easy to install and looks beautiful. Plus the A/C brackets don't share any of the exhaust bolts. You can save a few $$ by buying the edelbrock reverse rotation w/p, p/s pump and reservior from Summit / Jegs ..etc. But the A/C compressor was about the same from March.

Just my .02.

-Frank

 

HHHHEEEERRREEE we go!!! This how it all starts. I was just gonna rebuild my 427BB and now I have a 598 with a 6 speed Transzilla. It's all 427Hotrod's fault. I assume no responsiblity for my actions. Everyone should own a ground-stompin' BB at least once.

 

Thinking about this:

http://www.tandlengines.com/Street_E...vrolet_bb.html

496", 550hp, 575tq. $6900+shipping, carb to pan, dyno tuned. ready to rock. I talked to LLoyd for about 20 mins today about small blocks and BBs. He says a mild 408", hyd roller with about 460-470hp, 500-520lbs tq would easily go mid to high 11s in a 3500lb car. I can go that route for about $5200 carb to pan. HMMMMMM

 

Size does matter.

 

Dude, you're gonna love the RAT motor and all it brings to the table. I'm not so sure your a/c system will make the conversion. I took mine out before I dropped in the big block. Mine is a mild one and I got 471 horse on the dyno after it was built. And it also showed up with 460 ft/lbs or torque. Yeeeeeehaaaaaa!

 

Indy, who did your motor? Have you driven it yet?

 

gator79 is right.."no replacement for displacement!"

Lemme see if I can help. I've got a 77' that had a rebuilt SB which I knew no specs on. All I knew was that it didnt perform the way I wanted it to. So, a few months ago i was in your same shoes debating going through my small block or to go BIG instead?! Did some research and read a lot of threads here.

...Well, ended up with a beautiful stroked 496ci BB pushing about 575hp/close to 600trq (according to my eng builder). Wont know for sure til I have it dyno'd but since I never drove a BB b4, it is more power than I could ever imagine!!! THE TORQUE IS UNBELIEVABLE!!! Because I went with the roller rockers and used the tall valve covers, they do touch a/c box pretty good, but not using it anyway and there was a hole in it from back in the day (you cant really tell unless your lookin for it). THE STOCK VALVE COVERS SHOOOOOULD CLEAR. I went with the orginal bracket for all the bolt ons but went with aftrmrkt pulleys. GO WITH THE STOCK PULLEYS so you wont have the offset problems I had. Shim'd the hell out of the water pump but still a bit off.

General Specs:
- 770 Holley Steet Avenger Carb
- Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake
- Iron Heads w/ stock in vlvs, 1.88 ex (Ported & Polished!)
*Iron version of Edelbrock's Performer RPM Heads
- Roller Rockers (not sure of the ratio)
- Hypereutectic Pistons
- Isky’s Mega 286 Cam (510int/510ex ~ 224int/224ex @.50 w/ 108 lobe cntr.)
- TH400 (w/ B&M shift kit)
- Art Carr’s 9.5in trq convrtr w/ 3000stall (NITRUS compatible…for later on!)
- 40 series Flowmaster's w/ 3” exhaust system.

In all, spent a little more than I wanted to, but DAMN WORTH IT…so just DO IT!!!

 

...Sorry wanted to throw my pic link at cha too!

http://www.putfile.com/seanec037

 

Wow, that's so similar to the 454 I'm building it's almost creepy. I'm debating on whether to sell it or put it in the '79. What hood are you using to make the air cleaner fit? (I've got an RPM Air Gap that I am VERY pessimistic about being able to use with the stock hood). I've also got the same carb. I'm considering a setup so similar to yours (right down to the TH400 w/ B&M shift kit to the 40 series Flows with 3" exhaust), that I'm dyin' to know how you got everything to fit and what modifications you had to make! The only real difference is the cam; I've got a Comp hydraulic flat tappet (.574" / .578" lift, 240/246 duration @ .050"). Any suggestions/advice?

 

Was that on a rear wheel or flywheel dyno? I ask because I expect similar numbers at the flywheel of my 454 and I'm wondering if you got the factory rear end parts to hold up or if you had to go aftermarket with U-joints, half shafts, diff parts, etc.

 

If I decide to go with the 454, I'll probably go with the dual 11" electric fans from Dewitts. Can I use the original rad (car HAD a/c) and ditch the original shroud without overheating the living hell out of it or is that a bad idea? The 454 I'm building is fairly mild - I'd be very surprised if it hits 480 hp.
OK, that's enough pestering everyone with my big block questions.

 

I bought my car with a strong SB. Did some tweaking, and it's very respectable. Would I do it all over again? HELL NO!!! My next one will be a BB.

 

how is the sound with the 40 series flowmasters?