Steeroids Bracket welding
at some point I want to put that cross support between the upper a arms, but have to move the p/steering reservoir first, it's a serp drive off a '88 vette with stock tank in near stock location,....ie..in the way...
another freaking greasey plumbing job....in a tight location, something I would rather AVOID....PIA....
GENE
Your box sections and angle iron is a lot more rigid than the thin stamped steel.
The steeroids I THINK I remember seeing was 1/4 inch steel plate with a triangle under the frame catching the both if not all 4 of the bolts going to the old steering ram, plus the 3 on the original box....
I know it was triangulated to the outer/lower part of the frame...
my silly little 1/8 inch thick with only the front two bolts from the original box, making a dog leg down and to the front, and then a 3/4 x 1/8 inch thick steel bar welded to it, and then into the frame with the above 5/16 inch bolt simply can't be as strong as the steeroids setup....
so you are saying the steel is thinner now than it was at 1/4 inch??
or is my memory fond, and they changed production to some thin stamping?? what you describe and what I remember seeing, and what I think the pix showed....are two differant animulebobbles....
GENE
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Look at this pic

The sections where it's doubled seem reasonable but the rest???
Eyeballing it from the pic the thickness looks like about 2/3 of what the frame is made of
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Jun 26, 2006 at 03:47 PM.





Twin Turbo, did you like the setup of the components and driving feel?
Also the kit uses a lockwasher directly on the rod end pivot ball and no spacer between the rod end and center bracket. A longer set of 5/8UNF bolts a backing spacer between the rod end and bolt & plate would have been nice, misalignment spacers aren't expensive at all. The bolts are secured w/ locktite anyway so the lockwasher is useless, even more so because it locks on the pivot ball.
Overall the install went smooth, no header clearance probs w/ hooker super comps, no issues w/ aligning the input shaft although to get the steering wheel on straight I had to install the 3 pc. joint so that the lock screw does not thread against the flat spot on the column, it's at a slight angle. That's the problem w/ using a double D shaft, there's no way to clock it. Nicer would have been a normal section of shaft with either one side welded ot both sides splined so you can precisely clock it and have a perfectly centered steering wheel.
The one thing I would really chenge is the brackets, for a cruiser they will work nicely but ig you have done serious mods to stiffen frame and suspension and want to corner harder and have a more direct feeling and input..the brackets are too flimsy.
I fail to see any increase in strength in mine over steeroids, since mine must weigh much less....anyway, I know the frame flexes before the bracket I made up....
GENE
this is with 255 R17 Kuhmo Ectsa's on asphalt, so there was a lot of resistance!
this is with 255 R17 Kuhmo Ectsa's on asphalt, so there was a lot of resistance!
but yes I checked for bad welds also...nothing so far, I am well aware of this car being 35 years old now, and so keep inspecting every few months...no frame cracks yet....tmrw is another day however....
glad a have a well qualified welding buddy....
GENE
Is this what you are looking for?
These are not steeroids brackets, but my own creation

More pics and text here;
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/427v8/c3randp.html
Here some pics.
Dan
http://www.vetteworksonline.com/stee...teeroids1w.jpg
http://www.vetteworksonline.com/stee...teeroids4w.jpg
http://www.vetteworksonline.com/stee...teeroids2w.jpg
http://www.vetteworksonline.com/stee...teeroids3w.jpg













