When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: Guantanamo Bay, Cuba (home in Colorado Springs)
A arm aluminum replacement
Ecklers has some EXPENSIVE aluminum upper a arm replacements. I'm interested in shaving some additional weight off my '80. Also concerned with durability of after-market a-arms (control arms).
Has anyone tried these yet? Evaluation?
Thanks!
Here are some more for you to check out. I've got standard steel aftermarket a-arms and they are incredibly tough. It would be hard to make any that aren't more durable than the stock stamped steel things...
Not sure I'd trust an aluminum a arm... I'd be afraid of it giving out easier than a steel one. Don't VBP and Vansteel have tubular ones that are lighter and tougher than the stock ones?
Not sure I'd trust an aluminum a arm... I'd be afraid of it giving out easier than a steel one. Don't VBP and Vansteel have tubular ones that are lighter and tougher than the stock ones?
I'm not sure if I trust aluminum or tubular steel... the tubular arms look flimsy (that's only my opinion from looking at photos)....the arms that Twin_Turbo built look like they can handle a nuclear blast
You'd be amazed at how strong tubular steel is, I'm redoing mine sometime in the future (too many other projects that need finishing first) to shed some weight. Those vans teel arms are likely a good bit stronger than the stockers.
You'd be amazed at how strong tubular steel is, I'm redoing mine sometime in the future (too many other projects that need finishing first) to shed some weight. Those vans teel arms are likely a good bit stronger than the stockers.
Why would people make weaker aftermarket arms. I don't see a market for cheap weak parts.
Our design box-tube A-arms are MIG welded to be stronger than stock arms. Our poly bushings also allow the arms to pivot more freely with less deflection than the stock rubber bushings. We have relocated the ball joint mounts which allows up to 5 degrees positive caster and a greater camber adjustment range for improved handling and road tracking.
Our arms are shipped with offset cross shafts, poly bushings, installed ball joints and are powder coated black as standard. Red and yellow powder coating is also available for a small additional charge. The price is $329.95 less the forum 10% discount, so before shipping the net cost is $296.96. Our arms about 1-2 lbs. lighter than stock.
You'd be amazed at how strong tubular steel is, I'm redoing mine sometime in the future (too many other projects that need finishing first) to shed some weight. Those vans teel arms are likely a good bit stronger than the stockers.
I have not seen them in person - that's why I said I only looked at photos.
I know tubular steel is strong, I'm more concerned about the welds - under the powdercoating you cannot even see if there is a problem. Doesn't CrMo steel require post weld heat treatment to reduce hardness and stress in the welded area ?
I think the general consensus from us would be if you want to replace your a-arms go with VBP or Van Steel. Both are EXCELLENT companies, in my opinion. Impossible to beat their deals with the forum discount.
Tubing is: Chrome-Moly 4130 Condition N, 1" x .095 (Uppers) and 1" x .120 (Lowers)
Filler Wire: ER80S-D2
Heat treating and/or stress relieving thin wall tubing will hurt the part more than help it. Air cooling is all that is necessary. The welds are initially cooled within an Argon shield for the first 15 seconds, this allows the weld to cool enough to prevent oxidation and scaling on the outside of the weld.
Our arms are also TIG welded not MIG welded. You can get our arms unpowder coated to visually inspect them. Heck you can even take them to get the, magnifluxed(spelling) and I be they will pass. According to our UPS scale ours were 3 lbs lighter per arm.
the heat treatment is useless on the relativly thin wall size. Also, it's a complex procedure requiring an autoclave programmed for a temperature over time curve. Furthermore the assemblies will have to be fixed in a fixture that keeps them from distorting during the process. Some will use a orch to heat the part and then let it cool off. This does more harm than good, first of all it's duration way too short to do any good and if you use a torch you create a sort of thin slag on the outside, like a small film that comes off reducing the wall thickness. As Van Steel describes it is how it's best done, weld w/ a good argon postflow to allow it to cool under shielding gas.
TIG is such a controlled process that it is excellent for fabricating these parts, contrary to MIG you can actually see what you're doing and control/adjust accordingly. With MIG you are dedicated to your settings once you pull the trigger.
I'm not sure if I trust aluminum or tubular steel... the tubular arms look flimsy (that's only my opinion from looking at photos)....the arms that Twin_Turbo built look like they can handle a nuclear blast
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by comp
C4's hold up
I was amazed at how flimsy the C4 arms look, but apparently they are very strong, if you haven't seen one take a look, the aluminum is so skinny you would think it would snap over the first bump, but it doesn't
From: Guantanamo Bay, Cuba (home in Colorado Springs)
My thanks to all, especially Van Steel & VBP for their informative replies. The future is in Aluminum. I think all the world's Magnesium was used up in B-36's years ago. Quickness by weight reduction (shear vehicle mass) is where I'm going with this. Another oddity of the aluminum parts is that they are simply cast; not forged. This fact really bothers me above the ridiculous prices of the aluminum parts. As an interim solution, I will install the steel parts and evaluate how vehicle responds.
Thanks from Baghdad!