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I've been a big mobil 1 guy for a while now... but what weight should I use on a '75 350 in Michigan where the heat is kinda mild but I only drive it on the nice days that are 70-90 degrees with the sun out....
I just got my '75 and the oil is rather black and I have a hunch the previous owner used cheap crap anyway so I'm going to change it this weekend just to be safe.
I use Valvoline 20-50 high mileage in my 69 350/300. been using it in my83 mustang glx 5.0 5 speed conv for about the last 5 yrs(150k miles) works great.
i've found out a funny and in some way illogical iussue but it's true, changing from 5/50 mobil 1 to a lighter 5/30 fully sintetic i've found a noticeable power increase, the engine revs easier and it goes smoother, did anybody else found out same thing? what would be the explanation?
i've found out a funny and in some way illogical iussue but it's true, changing from 5/50 mobil 1 to a lighter 5/30 fully sintetic i've found a noticeable power increase, the engine revs easier and it goes smoother, did anybody else found out same thing? what would be the explanation?
viscous drag. Its been robbing you of power for years. The only thing I don't like about synethic is it is so "slick" it will always find a place to leak out of on an older engine.
viscous drag. Its been robbing you of power for years. The only thing I don't like about synethic is it is so "slick" it will always find a place to leak out of on an older engine.
For all us flat tappet cam guys I would stay away from the synthetics. There is not enough additives to properly lube the cam. I/we had a big topic on this about 3 months ago on the benefits/negatives of synthetics vs. dino oil. I am now using Valvoline VR1 racing oil. It has all the additives needed for flat tappet cams. The Rotella oil also has the right additives. The sythetics and newer oils have to meet emissions so a lot of the sulpher if not all has been taken out of these oils. The racing oil does not have to meet any emissions so they can leave the good stuff in there. I have talked to many engine builders at great length about this and most agree you need sulpher for flat tappet cams. Most of the cam manufacters are asking that you at least break in the cam with this type of oil, so why not run it everyday. It is not as cheap as everyday oil but not quite the price of synthetics either.
For all us flat tappet cam guys I would stay away from the synthetics. There is not enough additives to properly lube the cam. I/we had a big topic on this about 3 months ago on the benefits/negatives of synthetics vs. dino oil. I am now using Valvoline VR1 racing oil. It has all the additives needed for flat tappet cams. The Rotella oil also has the right additives. The sythetics and newer oils have to meet emissions so a lot of the sulpher if not all has been taken out of these oils. The racing oil does not have to meet any emissions so they can leave the good stuff in there. I have talked to many engine builders at great length about this and most agree you need sulpher for flat tappet cams. Most of the cam manufacters are asking that you at least break in the cam with this type of oil, so why not run it everyday. It is not as cheap as everyday oil but not quite the price of synthetics either.
did any of you ever used castor based racing monograde oil? i've always used this type of oil in a competition mini and they claim is the best oil of all but need a change every 500 miles or so...also the smell they live around is so charming!!!
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