ac question
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 79
Likes: 5
From: North East Pa.
ac question
i have a 73 with air. i had the system charged and it blows cold for a day or two i must have a leak. does anyone know the most likely problem or any suggestions.
thanks
phil
thanks
phil
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 620
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio TX
You said you had it charged. Did you have it done by a professional? They should not have just dumped some freon in your system without first checking for leaks.
Take it back and have them do it right.
I don't know about your state, but some require that a system be checked for leaks prior to "topping off" the system.
Take it back and have them do it right.
I don't know about your state, but some require that a system be checked for leaks prior to "topping off" the system.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 3
From: belle plaine ks
nitrogen
Find a better shop to do your ac work. I have one that fills the system with nitrogen to check for leaks prior to charging the system. Nitrogen being inert will not damage system and will remove moisture as well. It is a better way to find the leak as well.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: St Louis MO
If you do not want to do the work yourself, take it to a qualified A/C repair shop. As stated earlier in this thread, it is illegal to just add refrigerant without determining whether the system leaks or not. If you care, reference the EPA clean air act 609.
I deal with this daily, I hold the certification required to work on CFC refrigerant systems.
Also, as stated earlier, if the leak is not readily apparent, have them add fluorescent dye to the system. Then they can check for trace evidence of a leak using an ultraviolet light. If your car has the original style compressor, these compressors had a history of leaking from the seal at the pulley drive shaft, especially if they sit unused for long periods of time. A qualified tech can replace that seal rather than throw away a perfectly good compressor. Fairly simple task with the correct tools.
Also, we have a standard in our shops, after fixing the suspected leaks, we pull a vacuum on the system and measure with a thermistor to a solid reading of 125 microns, this assures all moisture in the system has "boiled away."
Good luck, when serviced properly, this system will cool the car.
I deal with this daily, I hold the certification required to work on CFC refrigerant systems.
Also, as stated earlier, if the leak is not readily apparent, have them add fluorescent dye to the system. Then they can check for trace evidence of a leak using an ultraviolet light. If your car has the original style compressor, these compressors had a history of leaking from the seal at the pulley drive shaft, especially if they sit unused for long periods of time. A qualified tech can replace that seal rather than throw away a perfectly good compressor. Fairly simple task with the correct tools.
Also, we have a standard in our shops, after fixing the suspected leaks, we pull a vacuum on the system and measure with a thermistor to a solid reading of 125 microns, this assures all moisture in the system has "boiled away."
Good luck, when serviced properly, this system will cool the car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
I was under the impression that when they vacuum the system down they can tell if it is leaking or not
Is this correct?
My 73 (R134 conversion) will blow low 40's for a week or so then it gets warmer from then on.
The evaporator (or dryer) whichever its called is in a very tough spot to get at and Im pretty sure thats where its leaking from after putting dye in the system.
Is this correct?
My 73 (R134 conversion) will blow low 40's for a week or so then it gets warmer from then on.
The evaporator (or dryer) whichever its called is in a very tough spot to get at and Im pretty sure thats where its leaking from after putting dye in the system.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Here's another question....I tried the auto store recharge kit and got the pressure on the gauge to where it's suggested, started the car and let it run....but nothing changed...no cool, no pressure drop...no nothin'...
Anybody know how long to leave that can on and do I need to rev the engine to high rpm???
I oughta just go to a shop...huh...
Anybody know how long to leave that can on and do I need to rev the engine to high rpm???
I oughta just go to a shop...huh...
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Originally Posted by noonie
You must evacuate the system with a pump before adding anything, your probably just compressing mostly air, so it won't cool.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by noonie
Unless you want to spend money on the tools, take it to a pro. Vacumn pumps are cheap on ebay.
you wont get it down to 29 or 30 LBS but you can get whatever your engine pulls at an Idle, then you can do the rest with a hand pump
