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Heater hose shutoff valves make drastic difference!

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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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Default Heater hose shutoff valves make drastic difference!

Last week I asked you guys for help in deciding which heater hose to install a shutoff valve to cool my interior. All your replies were great. I ended up installing valves in both hoses of my 70 sb. I got the valves (5/8 and a 3/4) at a NAPA store for about $17 total. I installed them (with valves closed) in about a half hour and topped off the radiator to replace the fluid that leaked out during the splicing (roughly a quart). The result is an unbelievably cooler interior. The wave of heat that used to hit me 5 minutes into every drive no longer comes. I can't believe I waited five years to do this.

Anyway, thanks again for your help!
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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Could you enlighten me on this modification ? It sounds like something that I could really benefit from.

thnx
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:55 PM
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Thunder, its just a ball type valve you can get at Home Depot, Lowes, wherever. Insert it into the water supply line to the heater core, its the one coming from the manifold. It just turns off the hot water to help keep the heat out of the cockpit. You will need 1 valve, 2 hose nipples, 2 clamps. Only need one valve, 2 is overkill.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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Thnx Sixfooter...I just read a post on the C3 tech tips from Al Sindoni that fixes a heat in the cockpit problem also... I'm going to try both.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 12:04 AM
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I don't have a heater core or most ductwork. Is there anything I should check to ensure I'm not getting any unneccessary heat in the cockpit?
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:35 AM
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Since I don't drive any in the winter and need a heater, I just plug the openings in the water pump and intake manifold with simple pipe plugs. This cleans up the engine compartment without the need for all those heater hoses.

Only downside is defogging in moist weather. But that is not much of a problem in dry Colorado.

Ralph
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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If you are using this type of valve, be careful!!!



If for some reason you feel the need to OPEN the valve when the engine is hot... maybe you stop for gas on a cool night and decide you want some heat?? Just be careful because when you open the valve sometimes they stick and you turn the handle and think you are opening the valve but you are actually unscrewing the top and the whole thing comes out and if your system is hot it will spray hot coolant all over the place!! Got it?
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 12:16 PM
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yeah...I was going to either just loop the water pump hose into the manifold using a hose adapter or maybe just eaisery as you said to use pipe plugs. I will be doing this this weekend also.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Wouldn't it be better to go with the original vacuum actuated 'heater control valve', rather than using shut off valves?
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 01:49 PM
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The vacuum operated shutoffs don't work that good. Also, unless the A/C control is in the max position the valve allows coolant to enter the heater core. The A/C blows thru the heater core and the hot coolant dosen't allow the A/C to function as efficiently as it should. The very best way to ensure that the heater core isn't allowed to have hot coolant enter, two ballcock type shutoffs are the most effective way to completely shut down the heat source.
Bernie
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 02:33 PM
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When the original vacuum operated 'heater control valve' is working correctly, it will only allow hot coolant to to enter the heater core when the function switch is in the postion for heat.

The 'heater control valve' is designed to close off all coolant flow to the heater core when the function switch is in any other position.

That is the way the system was designed and that is the way the system works when everything is functioning correctly.

There is really no need to re-invent anything.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by carpedm
yeah...I was going to either just loop the water pump hose into the manifold using a hose adapter or maybe just eaisery as you said to use pipe plugs. I will be doing this this weekend also.
I posted a solution to this problem quite a while ago. A fellow CFer told me that he went to the local plumbing supply and bought two 3/4" elbows and a very small section of 3/4" pipe to connect them. He soldered the straight pipe, cut just short enough to sweat solder to the two elbows. When you are done, you have a 3/4" 180 fitting. Pull your heater hoses and connect this fitting to the hoses, using two clamps of course, and the water will flow from the input to the ouput hoses, totally bypassing your heater core. The fix is completely reversible in ten minutes, should you ever need your heater back.

Gary
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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There is a tremendously informative book called "Air Conditioning Strategies for the 63-82 Corvette" which explains in detail with research that shows how poorly the C3 A/C system is designed and how poorly it functions. Prestige Publishing is the source. I bought mine thru Corvette Central, but it can be ordered directly from Prestige Publishing at this address: P.O.Box 2786 Grapevine TX 76099-2786 for $19.95.

The system is poor at best; that is why GM discarded it for something better. The book explains its shortcomings and ways to improve it and the enterior for a comfortable ride. Buy the book, it will be one of the best $20.00 investments you will make!
Bernie
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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Good safety related information. I have a valve just like that installed on my Vette.
Has this happened to you?

Originally Posted by PRNDL
If you are using this type of valve, be careful!!!



If for some reason you feel the need to OPEN the valve when the engine is hot... maybe you stop for gas on a cool night and decide you want some heat?? Just be careful because when you open the valve sometimes they stick and you turn the handle and think you are opening the valve but you are actually unscrewing the top and the whole thing comes out and if your system is hot it will spray hot coolant all over the place!! Got it?
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
There is a tremendously informative book called "Air Conditioning Strategies for the 63-82 Corvette" which explains in detail with research that shows how poorly the C3 A/C system is designed and how poorly it functions.
When you talk with someone who has owned their c3 Corvette for more than 35 years, you will quickly find out that the a/c system is actually more than adequate and when everything is working correctly, will function better than most.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mirrorfinishman
When you talk with someone who has owned their c3 Corvette for more than 35 years, you will quickly find out that the a/c system is actually more than adequate and when everything is working correctly, will function better than most.
I found this to be the case as well. My first C3 was only 1 1/2 years old when I bought it--the a/c worked great. My '77's a/c works great.

If the a/c is working correctly, your Vette needs that heater water valve in place so you can bring cabin temperatures up to comfortable levels.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
There is a tremendously informative book called "Air Conditioning Strategies for the 63-82 Corvette" which explains in detail with research that shows how poorly the C3 A/C system is designed and how poorly it functions. Prestige Publishing is the source. I bought mine thru Corvette Central, but it can be ordered directly from Prestige Publishing at this address: P.O.Box 2786 Grapevine TX 76099-2786 for $19.95.

Thanks Bernie
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To Heater hose shutoff valves make drastic difference!

Old Jul 4, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKER
Good safety related information. I have a valve just like that installed on my Vette.
Has this happened to you?

I unscrewed the top of my valve once, but the engine was cool at the time. It never occurred to me that anyone would unscrew it when hot. But then someone posted a story about getting sprayed with coolant in this manner. I felt kind of bad for not having warned about it when it happened to me, so I have been warning ever since!
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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There are too many post with irrrefutable (sp) evidence that the original system in good operationg condition just is not enough. There is also research which also proves that there are solutions that make our C3 A/C untis function better because of increased air flow, better pressure, better insulation and the absence of heated coolant in the heater core. If you want to live with the original. so be it, but for many of us what want to make these great cars perform as well as and are as comfortable to drive as later model cars, we have to make changes that GM made to later models.

I won't argue the point anymore, my car is comfortable, safe and performs better than it ever did when it was new. Research, development and modifications made as a result, made it a better car. When I was flying, it didn't take me 25 years to realize that the plane could be made faster, safer and more reliable because of the research of people with the foresight to use today's technology that simply was not available 25 years ago. I might be 59 years old but I don't have to live like I did 25 years ago and certainly do not have to settle for 25 year old technology! I hope that each and everyone of you have had a tremendously rewarding Independance Day! Long live the USA!
Bernie
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:10 PM
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i'm with Bernie on this one, next we will be saying they don't leak either
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