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This is a branch off the thread entitled Aux cooling fans. It seems a number of us '79ers have a similar problem with our cars running somewhat warm at highway speeds. Has anyone had success installing a tranny cooler and if so where? What was it's effect on the engine temp. How does it connect? Which cooler did you use? Our cars seem to do fine around town just have the problem at highway speeds.
I can't speak to any differences there might be between your year & my 69 at the front of the car but I mounted mine in front of the radiator. It's a B&M, rectangular in shape and it's fairly thin. I had to mount it offset to the passenger side or the tip of the hood where it comes to a point would have hit it whenever I opened the hood. It had no effect on coolant temps. Hopefully this helps.
I run an aux tranny cooler in sequence with my radiator. I can't say it made much difference in the engine temp, but it does make a difference with the trans temp. If you run a torque converter with a higher than 1800 stall you SHOULD be running an aux cooler in sequence with your radiator. My tranny fluid comes outa the trans, into the radiator, outa the rad, into the aux cooler, outa the aux cooler back to the trans.
edit: oh yeah....its mounted in front of the rad...its a B&M and its about 10"x14"
This is the first I have heard about running hot being specific to the 79 model year. That said, I have a 79 that runs about 240 on the highway and at 3200 rpm's with a relatively new radiator. Swapping in a 160 thermostat did nothing but delay reaching max temp. A trans shop suggested my 2700 rpm converter might be a contributing factor. One BB owner swears by his B&M frame rail cooler to keep temps down. The rail cooler has blades that draw air over the coil when in motion. My engine temp drops below 220 when I keep the rpm's below 2900. My solution to keep it cool is to swap the TH350 for a 200-4r and add a trans cooler.
This is the first I have heard about running hot being specific to the 79 model year. That said, I have a 79 that runs about 240 on the highway and at 3200 rpm's with a relatively new radiator. Swapping in a 160 thermostat did nothing but delay reaching max temp. A trans shop suggested my 2700 rpm converter might be a contributing factor. One BB owner swears by his B&M frame rail cooler to keep temps down. The rail cooler has blades that draw air over the coil when in motion. My engine temp drops below 220 when I keep the rpm's below 2900. My solution to keep it cool is to swap the TH350 for a 200-4r and add a trans cooler.
If you are running at 3200 rpm's on the highway, then the problem is simple. Fan clutches totally disengage at engine speeds above 2800 rpm.The fan clutch will never re-engage until your engine speed drops down below 2800 rpm's, no matter what the coolant temperature is, for at least ten minutes. There is simply not enough air (without the fan engaged) to keep coolant temperatures down below 220F. The situation is even worse with a/c and/or a 4-core radiator.
The best solution is the 200r4--to bring highway rpm's down to allow fan clutch operation.
An aluminum radiator works too. As do electric fans.
thats plenty cooling for a tranny. There are some tubular aluminum ones I have seen that you can mount under the car on the inside of the frame, use all that air flowin under there
Small? Aren't all tranny coolers around that size?
After I blew my tranny years ago from overheating I also put mine in the same place as 7t2vette. If I'm not mistaken mine is abit larger but they still do the job regarless of size, as long as they're placed right.
Went with the heat sink design coolers...
Installed them through the tranny crossmember where the exhaust usually goes.. I have sidepipes
With the B&M Supercooler, my tranny temperature went up to 230 degrees after 2 passes.. With the heat sink design cooler, the temperature never exceeded 150 degrees after 5 passes...
Question?
Do you eliminate the tranny fluid going thru the radiator and have it just go thru the auxiliary cooler or do you use both? Second question, obviously it keeps the temp of the tranny fluid down but does it help keep the engine temp down as well? This is the question Capt Ron and I need answered. I would think you would have to route the tranny fluid thru the aux cooler first and then the rad so its cooled as much as possible before entering the rad thereby hopefully keeping the water in the rad cooler. Make sense?
ESU
you can run it only thru the tranny cooler or thru both the rad and tranny cooler. Engine temp effect will be negligable. It has more of an advantage to the tranny. You can also put one on the oil for the engine to do the same thing.
No a/c condensor, for those of us with a/c its gonna get awful crowded up front.
That is what I found on my '79.
I made a couple of brackets and mounted my tranny cooler inside the shroud at the bottom. Mine is inline with the radiator cooler.
With a big aluminum radiator there was no difference in overall cooling, can't say what a stock radiator would do.
And after re-reading the initial post I have to ask the question. If the car is running hot at highway speeds then why are you looking at a transmission cooler? As mantioned, if you are running a higher stall converter then you should have a tranny cooler. Here in south Texas my old stock radiator would not keep up. I got a Griffen Aluminum direct bolt in. It cost me some $ but I simply don't have to worry about cooling anymore. (at least until I get to 600 HP).
Went with the heat sink design coolers...
Installed them through the tranny crossmember where the exhaust usually goes.. I have sidepipes
With the B&M Supercooler, my tranny temperature went up to 230 degrees after 2 passes.. With the heat sink design cooler, the temperature never exceeded 150 degrees after 5 passes...
That style cooler can be had from rod supply vendors. They advertise in most magazines for custom rods. You can also find them on ebay. They come in several lengths and also colors. Also in single and double pass.
I made a couple of brackets and mounted my tranny cooler inside the shroud at the bottom. Mine is inline with the radiator cooler.
With a big aluminum radiator there was no difference in overall cooling, can't say what a stock radiator would do.
And after re-reading the initial post I have to ask the question. If the car is running hot at highway speeds then why are you looking at a transmission cooler? As mantioned, if you are running a higher stall converter then you should have a tranny cooler. Here in south Texas my old stock radiator would not keep up. I got a Griffen Aluminum direct bolt in. It cost me some $ but I simply don't have to worry about cooling anymore. (at least until I get to 600 HP).
There are several of us with the same problem and we cant figure out why. We've done most if not all of the "standard" fixes for this problem with no luck. We're figuring maybe at hi way speeds (70mph+) our TH350's are really winding out and heating up thereby causing the engine temps to go up as well. Hotter tranny fluid running thru the radiator and not enabling the radiator to cool the antifreeze down as good as it should. It's a long shot we realize but we're running out of answers and starting to grasp at straws. As for the stall speed of the converter I have no idea, it was in there when I bought the car and I'm sure most of us have no idea what the stall speed is. Is there a way to tell other than by pulling it?? As for the alum rads , if I could get a 100% assurance that it would cure my ills I'd go for it. If I had 1 degree of water temp reduction for every guaranteed cure, new fan, new clutch, electric fan etc I'd be running at 120 degrees. The tranny cooler is an inexpensive fix with minimal installation time and if it doesnt cure the problem it at least will keep the tranny temps down.
ESU
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