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My originial plan was to cut out the center of the crossmamber and reinstal it with some plates and a 2 inch drop. Unfourtunatley at stock ride height of the frame (something I may not be able to acheive once the body is on ) the lower part of the cross member is already at 6 1/2 inches. a 2 inch drop might not work so hot. Now I am thinking after I remove it I fab a center section of the cross msmber out of 1 inch bar stock. All this is hard to figure cause I don't know how much the relationship between the fame and differential will change. I won't be building in 100 + antisquat so it shouldn't actually rise. corrrect. Anyone with experiance in this I would appreciate some advice.
Thanks
Greg
Thats been said before but I followed the supplied plans with the backhalf. I don't think it would have cleared that way either. Right now I have about 1 1/2 inchs. i don't think that is sufficient.
If your sure you will need more clearence below the driveshaft instead
of completely cutting the middle of the crossmember out why not
take a cutting torch and cut a inch half to two inch notch in the
top of the crossmember then take metal and and replate it.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i'm not sure this applies to what you are doing but when i put in the
700r4 my clearnace to the trans tunnel is about 3/8 of an inch. i would be looking closely at pinion angles also
Panchop, have you measured how much the suspension will hang down @ max droop? Then you can figure out apporximately what the lowest position of the driveshaft @ the crossmember will be and if you need more clearance.
Panchop I don't know how stiff or how much ajustment you have
on the rear coilovers but the body wheight should push the frame
down some and away from the driveshaft, if you have 6 1/2 inches
now below the rear crossmember I would think if the frame ended
up with 5 inches of road clearence you would be OK to drive on the street.
It doesn'tt matter how much the body pushes the frame down, those shocks are already attached so for full droop you just figure the extended stock length, the corresponding diff pinoion location will give you the lowest driveshaft angle and the clearance needed on the frame.
S'cool I got that part. The lower shock mounting point on the housing is a vertical metel plate. Welded to the housing it is 7 1/2 inches long with multiple mounting holes. The ride height and crossmember clearence will be determined by where the shock is attached to it. The higher the mounting point the closer the rear crossmember is to the driveshaft. I know where to attach it to get the stock ride height I would prefer but I don't know yet if that will allow me enough clearence for the tires. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll bribe some freinds with a case of beer and I'll drop the body on for some measurments and mock up.
Thanks
Greg
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