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$62.99
I would love to know whats inside that little sucker
It looks like nothing more than a carbon choke
Even going to Radio Shack and paying 10x markup, it's still a dollars worth of components. However if you want it "original", then you need the tubular can/case and mounting tab. I guess that's where the other $61.99 goes.
I built them on a stamp sized piece of electronics breadboard and heatshrink them. Three wires coming out one end. Dist, tach and ground. Based upon the non-hermetically sealed packaging, I usually recommend they be installed in the tach line under the dash so as to better protect them from the elements.
I'll take a picture of mine for you when I get home but what ACECO said is correct about the wiring. Sounds like he has a good deal for you too!
Bill
Here's a picture of mine, same as ACECO. Also note the picture of the origional one that came on the car. No resistors just a cap., pressboard end caps like the old days. If the new one wasen't $60 plus bucks I'd love to take it apart and see what they're selling. I've see other posts with the GM schematic as you've shown ACECO, I bet there's no resistor network inside these things. But it works anyway.
I'll put one in the mail for you Cory. As indicated in the above post, I recommend that you install it in the tach line under the dash so as to protect it from the weather and heat, etc of the engine compartment.
I'll put one in the mail for you Cory. As indicated in the above post, I recommend that you install it in the tach line under the dash so as to protect it from the weather and heat, etc of the engine compartment.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Have A Great Weekend!
George your the best! How do I hook it up tho? 3 wires as opposed to 2?
George your the best! How do I hook it up tho? 3 wires as opposed to 2?
The third wire is the ground. With the stock metal tube, it gets the ground connection when it is bolted in place. With the one I'm sending, you just need to make this ground connection with a wire instead.
I'll include a little instruction/wire id sheet I printed up. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
I'll try and get it in the mail Sat morn but if not it will be Mon. You should get it sometime next week. Let me know when it arrives.
Hey ACECO, you do a nice job making those up. You could buy some really cheap small potting molds and drop that thing inside then fill it with potting material to encapsulate the electronics. Sick a ground tab inside while doing that so when cured it could be bolted the the manifold with the tab. I bet you could sell a bunch of them at a resonable price and make out OK with it.
The third wire is the ground. With the stock metal tube, it gets the ground connection when it is bolted in place. With the one I'm sending, you just need to make this ground connection with a wire instead.
I'll include a little instruction/wire id sheet I printed up. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
I'll try and get it in the mail Sat morn but if not it will be Mon. You should get it sometime next week. Let me know when it arrives.
Have A Great Weekend!
George,
Thx a million I owe you again. ALso thx to TopGunn for the photos. I'll let you know when it arrives and when I hook it up. It'll give me an excuse to rip out the tach and install the digital,
Cory
Hey ACECO, you do a nice job making those up. You could buy some really cheap small potting molds and drop that thing inside then fill it with potting material to encapsulate the electronics. Sick a ground tab inside while doing that so when cured it could be bolted the the manifold with the tab. I bet you could sell a bunch of them at a resonable price and make out OK with it.
Thank You.
I was thinking about what I could enclose it in and some kind of a poured encapsulated enclosure came to mind. I had done this years ago when I worked for a contract R&D electronics shop. I also have thought about using a piece of electrical conduit or similar as the case but still need to figure out an easy way to do the mounting tab.
I have Dual Spalls on my car as well and see both a jumpy tach needle and some dieseling.
If I just moved the connections to a dedicated connection off the fuse block, would I avoid this jumpy tach? I think that is what I got from the thread to date, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't reading things wrong. The other alternative appears to be the filter on the tach line.
I have Dual Spalls on my car as well and see both a jumpy tach needle and some dieseling.
If I just moved the connections to a dedicated connection off the fuse block, would I avoid this jumpy tach? I think that is what I got from the thread to date, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't reading things wrong. The other alternative appears to be the filter on the tach line.
Is that a reasonable summary?
Dave
I originally had it on the fuse block and now moved it to the alternator, seems a little better. Will see what happens after installing ACECO's contraption.
ESU
I was thinking about what I could enclose it in and some kind of a poured encapsulated enclosure came to mind. I had done this years ago when I worked for a contract R&D electronics shop. I also have thought about using a piece of electrical conduit or similar as the case but still need to figure out an easy way to do the mounting tab.
Once again thanks for the input.
why don't you encase it in epoxy? run your ground wire to the mounting tab. encase the tab in the epoxy. paint it to resemble the original.
I originally had it on the fuse block and now moved it to the alternator, seems a little better. Will see what happens after installing ACECO's contraption.
ESU
Contraption???
Just as a disclaimer I don't know if the filter is going to help your specific issue. A filter was installed in the tach line and came that way from the factory. It was there to protect the tach board from the noisy/spiky signal coming from the ignition.
Now if your issue is the whole electrical system (in other words the main 12 volt "bus") and this is where the spikes are coming from that are currently causing the tach to jump, then the stock filter or the one I sent isn't going to help. It only protects the tachs signal input line, not its power source.
Hope that was understandable. Either way I hope the filter helps this issue. However if it doesn't, leave it there to do the job it was intended for vs. removing it.
Just as a disclaimer I don't know if the filter is going to help your specific issue. A filter was installed in the tach line and came that way from the factory. It was there to protect the tach board from the noisy/spiky signal coming from the ignition.
Now if your issue is the whole electrical system (in other words the main 12 volt "bus") and this is where the spikes are coming from that are currently causing the tach to jump, then the stock filter or the one I sent isn't going to help. It only protects the tachs signal input line, not its power source.
Hope that was understandable. Either way I hope the filter helps this issue. However if it doesn't, leave it there to do the job it was intended for vs. removing it.
Good Luck! Let us know the outcome.
Sorry George, didnt mean to be insulting on your handiwork. Just the technical ignorance of me coming out. I really appreciate the help and you going thru the effort of making this and mailing it to me, mea culpa , mea culpa, whatever that means.
Cory
Sorry George, didnt mean to be insulting on your handiwork. Just the technical ignorance of me coming out. I really appreciate the help and you going thru the effort of making this and mailing it to me, mea culpa , mea culpa, whatever that means.
Cory
Don't worry Cory, I'm not insulted. Just busting your stones.
George,
The package arrived yesterday thank you very much. I havent had a chance to install it yet. Going to be away next week on vacation so it might be till after I get back. Again, thx very much, you're a true gentleman,
Cory