u got mail!

 

awesome!! i can't wait to get turning my wrenches. great pics, it really gives me an idea of what i'm getting into.

 

After installing the front end components, check for clearance between the rubber bumpers and the frame. Insufficient clearance will not give you enough suspension travel to get the full beneit of the components you are installing.

 

I have a 1970 Corvette with a 454 cu in engine and I have owned the car for 8 years. I had not done anything to the suspension. My car felt like I was riding a skateboard down the road. My driver's rear started to sag making the car look unbalanced, which it was. I suggest, Vette Brake Products. I ordered the 7 leaf steel spring, the poly cushions kit for it, the Corvette Grand Touring Coil Springs and the 63-82 Corvette Complete Front End Rebuild Kit, which included all 4 balljoints, 4 tie rod ends, tie rod sleeves, heavy duty idler arm, all control arm bushings and the grease fitting covers all poly. I also ordered all 4 KYB shocks. I was going to go Bilstein Shocks but VBP suggested to me to go Bilstein only if my rear leaf spring was poly. Mine was steel, so they suggested KYB. I know this is a lot of money to spend, but it was the best money I have ever spent on my Corvette! It handles so much better, the ride, a little stiff, is more comfortable and not more sagging. Takes the curves like a trooper. You may not need all of this, but I came to realize that my corvette was in need for some suspension tlc. The total cost for parts and a very reputable place to have it all put on cost me around $2500. But like I said, the best money I have ever spent on my corvette. Cheers, Sherry

 

finally got around to ordering the kit. i can't wait to get home and get bolting. aug 20 it will start. hopefully by the 22nd it's done. i'll keep everyone informed.

 

u go guy

 

Ok, I removed all of the old rear suspension, and since it's relative easy access, I'm contemplating removing the differential and taking it in to get checked and rebuilt if necessary since I'm also going to have the half shafts refurbished with new ujoints and balanced. Is this a good/bad idea? It's a 1973 and I seriously doubt the differential has ever been checked - I bought the car from the original owner in 1992 -and I've never heard any noticeable driveline noise because the mufflers are loud.

If yes, can I just disconnect the shafts, (main and half), the front mounting bushing, and unbolt the crossmember to remove the differential fully intact? It looks like once everything is disconnected, that this would be easiest provided the crossmember w/differential was supported with a jack and eased down slowly. Or must I disconnect it from the main housing first - the bolt heads which mount the differential to the crossmember go in from on top, which would make unbolting the housing without removing the crossmember seemingly impossible.

Thanks.

 

i'm home and installing the parts. have the front almost done. install the spring today then start on the back. i'll post pics asap.

 

Yes you can disconnect the drive and half shafts and pull it out. We normally leave the driveshaft attached to the diff and pull it all out as one. Just leave the slip yoke in the tranny.