Final primer on...wet sand question

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Jul 11, 2006 | 12:04 AM

White 68

Thread Starter

Drifting

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 1,560

Likes: 5

From: Dallas Texas

Final primer on...wet sand question

Finally had sometime to paint I,m getting close to base/clear ...I,m using PPG primer NCP 271 over a PPG DP epoxy sealer on bare fiberglass...What grit wetsand paper should I finish with before spraying my basecoat ....PPG DBU classic white
I,m at 320 and it looks pretty smooth is 600 needed for white ?
Thanks for suggestions
Heres some pictures from today

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/sog...252005_004.jpg

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/sog...252005_005.jpg

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/sog...252005_009.jpg

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/sog...252005_016.jpg

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/sog...252005_018.jpg

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/sog...252005_022.jpg

Jul 11, 2006 | 12:24 AM

Corz

Team Owner

Joined: Sep 2001

Posts: 30,958

Likes: 0

From: Middletown Connecticut

Cruise-In IV Veteran

I did 400 wet, but depending on how heavy you put the primer on, you might sand through it.

600 would be a safe bet, but it'll take you a bit longer to get it flat

Jul 11, 2006 | 07:32 AM

crazywelder

Drifting

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 1,944

Likes: 22

From: Yooperville MI

Your project looks good. Don't take this the wrong way, but you should be using the manufacturer data sheet for every paint product you are using. The data sheet available at your store or from the manufacturer web site answers this question as well as compatibility, reduction, recoat, and dry times. For example some of today's paints can't sit for more than a week without being recoated. All the critical info you need to know is in these, because if someone gives you a wrong answer, you could be in big trouble. I've been using DBU a lot lately and 400-600 is fine. If you are not going to use a sealer before your topcoats, I would go to the finer side with 500-600. Now go get your data sheets for the DBU and the clear you plan to use. If you have enough DPLF leftover you can use it as a sealer.

Last edited by crazywelder; Jul 11, 2006 at 07:37 AM.

Jul 11, 2006 | 09:01 AM

hwcoop

Melting Slicks

Joined: Apr 2006

Posts: 2,084

Likes: 14

From: Airdrie Alberta

Looks great!...
I would replace your plastic masking on the pipes with paper., After you spray the base coat, when you go to spray the clear its going to blow off any paint that is on the plastic....lots of little flakes of paint and crap all over the place

I learned the hard way on a Silverado

Jul 11, 2006 | 10:26 AM

rponfick

Drifting

Joined: Nov 2002

Posts: 1,692

Likes: 207

From: Loveland, CO

I see a gas water heater in the corner of your garage. I would be very careful painting in the garage. You have a large fan, but I am not sure that will solve the problem. At least turn off the water heaters pilot light when you are spraying.

Ralph.

Jul 11, 2006 | 01:45 PM

bondoboy

Burning Brakes

Joined: Mar 2006

Posts: 1,036

Likes: 2

From: Huntingburg Indiana

For modern finishes 400-500 grit is fine. I have painted a lot of cars with single stage and base clear and 400 has never caused a problem. If you use too fine grit paper the paint won't stick as well. Paint adhesion is a mechanical bond. It sticks to the sanding scratches. If you go too fine, the scratches are too small for the paint to hold on to.

Jul 11, 2006 | 07:51 PM

White 68

Thread Starter

Drifting

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 1,560

Likes: 5

From: Dallas Texas

Thanks for the info guys ...Yes I had the hot water heater turned off during spraying ...

I have the p sheets , but don,t remember reading about how fine a paper to go down to ? I,ll have to re read ..

I will replace the plastic wrap with paper ...Great tip

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