1980 c3 engine overheating
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 41
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1980 c3 engine overheating
I'm new to the Corvette world and am just learning about the overheating problems. My newly purchased 1980 Corvette overheated and fried the engine..temp guage was not working. I changed EVERYTHING that had to do with cooling including a new creat engine. All new parts and the first time out it ran at 240+. I noticed that the radiator and hood seals are no longer there. If I replaced them and added an aux. fan do you think this will solve my overheating problem? PLEASE HELP!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Your Air Dam also needs to be in place and in good shape.
So you have a new rad? what kind?
Water Pump, what kind?
Is the water cutoff valve working on the heater hose?
The aux fan came from the factory controlled off the sensor in the head, it comes on at 230something I think. Changes there?
Is the gauge working now? Calibrated? hoe do you know?
Seals definately need to be in place as does the fan shroud.
So you have a new rad? what kind?
Water Pump, what kind?
Is the water cutoff valve working on the heater hose?
The aux fan came from the factory controlled off the sensor in the head, it comes on at 230something I think. Changes there?
Is the gauge working now? Calibrated? hoe do you know?
Seals definately need to be in place as does the fan shroud.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
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Did not have aux. fan but there is some type of factory wire near where it might go. Nothing in head that I know of.
The water pump is a Stewart Hi-Flo cast iron with a Robertshaw Hi-Flo 160 therm.
Radiator is standard OEM (new).
Not sure about heater valve but was told that didn't affect the cooling.
Temp guage questionable but when water is bubbling in the overflow like a tea kettle I'm guessing it's TO DAMN HOT. Guage was reading over 240.
Air Dams...I'm assuming you mean the ones under the front bumper...seem to be in good shape.
I ordered new radiator and hood seals and may try to divert more air to the front of the radiator some how. What do you think?
The water pump is a Stewart Hi-Flo cast iron with a Robertshaw Hi-Flo 160 therm.
Radiator is standard OEM (new).
Not sure about heater valve but was told that didn't affect the cooling.
Temp guage questionable but when water is bubbling in the overflow like a tea kettle I'm guessing it's TO DAMN HOT. Guage was reading over 240.
Air Dams...I'm assuming you mean the ones under the front bumper...seem to be in good shape.
I ordered new radiator and hood seals and may try to divert more air to the front of the radiator some how. What do you think?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Sarasota Florida
what i would do is remove the fan mounted to the engine and put a 2-in-1 electric fan. these fans blow at full speed regardless of how high your engine is revving. if you still have problems, i would check your exhaust connections just to make sure everything is tight. i had this problem at one time. if you want to make it even cooler yet, go to an auto parts store and buy some exhaust wrap and wrap the pipe under your hood. it makes a big difference, and it's even cool to the touch.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Breckenridge Colorado
Originally Posted by CHLAROCK
I noticed that the radiator and hood seals are no longer there. If I replaced them and added an aux. fan do you think this will solve my overheating problem? PLEASE HELP!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
I don't have a fan shroude.
What I have is a ZZ4 385hp. I just posted a thread in C3 general about my trip. "Back from my trip". I just made and how great my 78 ran in heavy traffic. I installed a dual electric fans w/ adjustable T-stat to turn on @185 degrees off @ 170 degrees. I also install a led pin light green in color to let me know when the fans come on and go off. Also a toggle switch that will over ride the adjustable T-stat. Thats so if the temp gage starts to go up and the fans do not. I can turn it on myself. I can ride around town all day in 4th and the fans will be on and the temp will be 195 degrees. One mile on the highway in 5th and the green light turns off,and won't come back on until I hit the exit ramp trip
What I have is a ZZ4 385hp. I just posted a thread in C3 general about my trip. "Back from my trip". I just made and how great my 78 ran in heavy traffic. I installed a dual electric fans w/ adjustable T-stat to turn on @185 degrees off @ 170 degrees. I also install a led pin light green in color to let me know when the fans come on and go off. Also a toggle switch that will over ride the adjustable T-stat. Thats so if the temp gage starts to go up and the fans do not. I can turn it on myself. I can ride around town all day in 4th and the fans will be on and the temp will be 195 degrees. One mile on the highway in 5th and the green light turns off,and won't come back on until I hit the exit ramp trip
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Satellite Beach FL
I replaced my c/b radiator with a new c/b, new seals and then some, tried all the water additives, hoses, waterpump, t-stats of various temp ranges, it still ran too hot for me.
I put in the Dewitts aluminum radiator, by myself in 20 minutes!, with dual 11" spal fans and this puppy cools now. Almost 96 degrees here today and runnin hard with the a/c it never got above 210. It's a little pricey for the setup but it's worth it to me - no more foolin around with it - I also notice a cooler cockpit and colder a/c
They are an excellent company to deal with as well - just my .02.
Bill
I put in the Dewitts aluminum radiator, by myself in 20 minutes!, with dual 11" spal fans and this puppy cools now. Almost 96 degrees here today and runnin hard with the a/c it never got above 210. It's a little pricey for the setup but it's worth it to me - no more foolin around with it - I also notice a cooler cockpit and colder a/c
They are an excellent company to deal with as well - just my .02.
Bill
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 41
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Thanks all responders for your help. It sound like an aux fan helps and air dams are also important. Everything is new as I stated. Lower rad hose is new with spring inside and clutch is in good shape also. I think I'll put the rad seals in and add a fan.
What are the thoughts on this idea? I was thinking of a way to divert air from the front grills directly to the front of the radiator. Also some type of air dam to get a bit more air to the engine compartment. Thanks again.
What are the thoughts on this idea? I was thinking of a way to divert air from the front grills directly to the front of the radiator. Also some type of air dam to get a bit more air to the engine compartment. Thanks again.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 5
From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by big_G
If everything is the way it came from the factory, you will have no cooling system problems. If it's overheating, look for something that's either incorrect, missing or broken.
I didn't notice any problem with my cooling system until I got the AC working again. It started slowly heating up after about 10 miles of highway travel. Turns out the lower air dam and valence panel were completely missing and there were huge gaps between the shroud and the radiator
.
